Profiles
of the artists who sculpt and influence the pinnacle
of fashion.
All
episodes are minimum 25min duration unless stated
otherwise.
|
FASHION FOLK Series 5 [16x26min episodes]
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP1 Alexis Mabille [PARIS],Yiorgos Elefteriades
[Athens], Manuel Bolano [Barcelona]
"Alexis
Mabille [PARIS]
Alexis
Mabille was born in 1977 to a middle-class family
in Lyons, France. His mother had an interest in
fashion, and taught the young Mabille how to use
a needle and thread. He developed an expertise
in creating clothes, and as a teen would dress
his family and friends. In 1995, Mabille enrolled
in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne
for a three-year course. In 1997, he graduated
early due to his early expertise at couture designs.
He would then train at Ungaro and Nina Ricci.
After his training at Nina Ricci and Ungaro, Mabille
moved to Dior where then-creative director John
Galliano noticed his talent and appointed him
to design the 1997 accessories collection for
the house. It was a major success, and he collaborated
on the men's jewelry collection with Hedi Slimane,
who would later go on to head Dior Homme.[3] He
would continue his service at Dior while collaborating
with such celebrated fashion houses as Yves Saint
Laurent and Lancôme.[1] In 2005, he launched his
namesake label, his designs at that time unisex.
He used the bowtie as his logo, which also showed
up in his designs.[1] His collections for Ready
to Wear were lauded across the fashion world,
with such people as Karl Lagerfeld and Mick Jagger
praising his bowtie collections.[3] In 2008, Alexis
Mabille showed at Paris Haute Couture Fashion
Week for the first time.
Yiorgos
Elefteriades [Athens]
Yiorgos
Eleftheriades’ collections have been displayed
in Athens, Paris and Barcelona. His philosophy
is based upon his love for classical forms. In
his search for contemporary elegance, he aims
to create a truly alternative urban style with
interesting shapes, quality tailoring and experimental
combinations of fabrics and textures. He is often
fond of bringing together contrasting materials
or elements. The main idea behind his perception
is a trans-seasonal timelessness and, a glamorous
but cool day-to-night approach. The clothes might
appear minimalistic and boldly outlined when worn
matchingly, but can also be worn in a more accessible
and softer neo-romantic style, with the juxtaposition
of fabrics and silhouettes. Being environmentally
conscious, he has been using natural and eco friendly
textiles since the start of his career. His work
has been presented in many magazines such as:
Numero homme, Dapper Dan, Mixte, Soon, Vogue Japan,
Harper’s Bazaar Japan, Dazed&Confused Japan, Amusement,
Metal, Surface, Zoo Magazine, So Chic, Wallpaper,
10, ID, Gad Japan, Glamour and Citizen K... etc.
Manuel
Bolano [Barcelona]
Born
in Barcelona, but brought up in the Spanish province
of Galicia. In 2002 he moved back to Barcelona,
and in 2007 graduated from the College of Design
and Fashion Felicidad Duce, where he won the prize
for the best Collection in his year-group at Bread
& Butter Barcelona. He takes part in the Open
Catwalk of Murcia, and wins prizes at the competition
for Young Creators in Madrid, the Noovo Festival
of Santiago de Compostela, Young Murcia and is
selected for the Bressol Project of the Government
of Catalonia. Since 2008 he has unveiled his collections
at 080 Barcelona Fashion and has won the prize
for the best female collection on two occasions:
Summer 2011 “Something about me“, and Summer 2012
“How to repair a broken heart”.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP2 Sharon Wauchob [PARIS], Boris Schipper
& Pedrosa Arques [Barcelona], Eleonore von Schwanenflügel
[Berlin]
"Sharon
Wauchob [PARIS]
Sharon
Wauchob was born in 1971 in Newtownstewart in
County Tyrone, Ireland. She moved to London and
studied at Central St. Martins Fashion College,
graduating in 1995. Japanese designer Koji Tatsuno
saw her graduation show and invited her to work
with him in Paris, which she did. After that she
worked briefly for the house of Louis Vuitton.
In 1998, Sharon decided to launch her own label
under her won name specializing in “alternative”
fashion. She set up her studio in Paris. She shows
her collections twice yearly during the Paris
Fashion Week. In addition to her own creations,
she also works with other companies. In August
2003 she landed a contract with the 70 year old
house of Bruno Magli to design shoes, handbags,
belts and accessories. She also works with companies
in Northern Ireland to develop original fabrics
and designs.
Boris
Schipper & Pedrosa Arques [Barcelona]
Boris
Schipper was born in the Netherlands in 1973 and
Tomas Pedrosa Arques in Belgium in 1969. The SCHIPPER/ARQUES
label was formed in Belgium in 2008. After dropping
out of the Gerrit Rietveld academy in Amsterdam,
Schipper and Pedrosa Arques started working together
in 1998 as stylists for clubs, music videos and
fashion, evolving to the point of catering to
high level private clients worldwide. Their conceptual
approach and counterculture story telling as well
as an outspoken opinion about all visual communication
and make-up are an essential part of the brand
identity. Work has been published in Vogue China,
Italy and Spain, Citizen K, Another Magazine and
many others.
Eleonore
von Schwanenflügel and Stephanie Pupke [Berlin]
The
fourth womenswear collection of VONSCHWANENFLÜGELPUPKE
centres on the printed motifs of the scarves set
in unique, geometric gowns. Some of the blouses
and skirts are decorated with needlework in wool
and ribbon suggesting trellises and a hothouse
filled with plenty. Intuitive themes are coupled
with precious, classical qualities. The Collection
has the casual look of thirties and forties informal
wear with golden-accented porcelain jewellery.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP3 Rabih Kayrouz [PARIS], Krizia Robustella
[Barcelona], Panos Emporium [STOCKHOLM]
"Rabih
Kayrouz [PARIS]
Rabih
Kayrouz was born in Lebanon in 1973. Kayrouz migrated
to Paris at the age of 16 to study at the Chambre
Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.[2] Career
In 1995, after training for several months in
the workshops of design houses Dior and Chanel,[3]
Kayrouz returned to Beirut where he developed
a reputation for designing evening gowns and wedding
dresses.[4] In 2008, Kayrouz returned to Paris
to open his own design house at 38, Boulevard
Raspail. Tje location was previously "Le Petit
Theatre de Babylone" where Beckett's play "Waiting
for Godot" was performed for the first time .[5]
Since 2009, Kayrouz has been a guest designer
for the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture,[6]
with his seasonal collections included in the
bi-annual Paris haute-couture fashion shows.[7]
In 2011, Kayrouz was selected by the prominent
French ELLE Magazine as one of the "Emerging New
Talents".[8] In 2012 he abandoned the appellation
"couture" to focus on ready-to-wear.[9] In the
same year, he created a capsule collection for
La Redoute.
Krizia
Robustella [Barcelona]
Krizia
Robustella is a fashion company, self-defined
as "Sport Deluxe”, which draws on sports garments
in recent decades to create their own universe
in which comfort merges with luxury. And luxury
is transformed into shapes and fabrics hitherto
relegated to the scale of the informal. Collection
- BANANAS IS MY BUSINESS At KR they like the tropical
groove a lot and to demonstrate this, their new
Collection SS 2014 “BANANAS IS MY BUSINESS” is
inspired by the eccentric and colorful Carmen
Miranda. “I wonder why does everybody look at
me and then begin to talk about a Christmas tree?
I hope that means that everyone is glad to see
the lady in the tutti-frutti hat. The gentlemen,
they want to make me say, "Si, si," But I don't
tell them that, I tell them, "Yes, sir-ee!" and
maybe that is why they come for dates to me, the
lady in the tutti-frutti hat. Some people say
I dress too gay, but every day, I feel so gay;
and when I'm gay, I dress that way, is something
wrong with that? Americanos tell me that my hat
is high, because I will not take it off to kiss
a guy; but if I ever start to take it off, ay,
ay! I do that once for Johnny Smith and he is
very happy with the lady in the tutti-frutti hat!”
Panos
Emporio [Stockholm]
Panos
Emporio is Scandinavia’s leading designer label
specialized in beachwear. It was founded in Sweden
1986 by fashion designer Mr. Panos Papadopoulos.
The brand is characterized by innovation and distinct
design that breathes style, quality and individuality.
Panos Emporio combines simplicity and sophisticated
clean lines with outstanding quality and fit.
This has earned the brand an extremely loyal customer
base with dedicated followers ranging from Hollywood
stars and top celebrity models to world famous
athletes and royalties. Panos Emporio is continuously
perfecting the beachwear collection and is now
expanding its universe with a vibrant clothing
collection that uses 25 years of design philosophy
to create a new level of high fashion. This year
Panos Emporio also released an elegant and waterproof
watch collection along with a fresh fragrance
collection inspired by paradise.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP4 Natalie Tribouillard [CEO] Leonard
[PARIS], Selim de Somavilla [Barcelona], Underground
[Athens]
"Natalie
Tribouillard [CEO] Leonard [PARIS]
It
all began in 1958 when Jacques Leonard asked Daniel
Tribouillard to start a new company: Leonard Fashion.
A man of artistic temperament, Daniel Tribouillard
set out to differentiate the brand in Haute Couture.
In 1960, he launched a revolutionary new process
for printing English weaves, that were very fashionable
at the time but said to be “unprintable”. His
clients were won over and the bold young man was
applauded across the globe. In just a few years,
encouraged by the success of his much-loved floral
prints, Daniel Tribouillard brought the Leonard
brand to the world. He developed his style by
adopting the orchid as an emblem: a delicate wild
flower “without geometric limits”. Indeed, Leonard's
originality is founded on a unique and recognizable
style shared by all of its designs - and also,
the fabrics used. In 1968, Daniel Tribouillard
presented his first collection of printed silk
jersey dresses with a slogan emphasizing the lightness
of the fabric: “The Leonard Dress: 150g of happiness”.
In the early 70s, the House diversified its production
(perfumes, ties, silk scarves…) and created its
own distribution network. The years went by, innovations
and inventions came one after the other and shaped
the brands reputation. In 1994, the House of Leonard
joined the French 'Féderation de la Couture' and
performed its first fashion show at the Carrousel
du Louvre.
Selim
de Somavilla [Barcelona]
Born
and bred and residing in Barcelona, Selim de Somavilla
became a fashion-designer between here and London.
In 2005 he graduated in Barcelona and went on
to form a part of the team of Martin Lamothe over
two collections. London offered him a new air,
maturity and a fresh perspective for his future
work dedicated to male fashion, studying at LCF
and working at The Rodnik Band. The man that is
dressed in his clothes knows no limitations. He
is a man of refined tastes, who likes dressing
well, with a certain melancholic air but without
losing his virility despite the important unisex
influence. De Somavilla places essential importance
to a “total outfit idea” in his collections, for
which he also designs bags, shoes and jewellery.
At the beginning of 2012 he shows his collection
called MAELSTRØM at the Fall-Winter ’12 edition
of Valencia Fashion Week and Move Seville. In
the September he showed “KNOCKOUT” in Barcelona,
a collection for Spring-Summer ’13, during the
Bosson Festival. He recently worked in conjunction
with the ESCORPION brand working on handbags for
the most recent 080 Barcelona Fashion.
Katerina
Gouma [Athens]
Underground
is an established label in the Greek market for
more than 15 years. Underground has reinvented
itself since 2005 as a creative fashion team -lead
by Katerina Gouma, head designer and co-owner-
by launching its own collections, available through
retail and wholesale in Greece, as well as selected
retail spots around the world. The basic creative
principles include a preference for natural fabrics,
an omnipresent yet widely modern reference to
ancient Greece and the Goddess Dress, plus persistence
on cuts that create a perfect fit on the body.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP5 Jean Paul Lespagnard [Brussels],
Celia Vela [Barcelona], Jung Kuho [New York]
"Jean
Paul Lespagnard [Brussels]
Jean-Paul
Lespagnard is a fashion designer, costume designer
for theatre and dance, visual artist and stylist
for magazines. He combines a great sense of fashion
with a fascination for high and low art and for
popular culture in all its shapes and forms. Jean-Paul
studied visual arts and fashion design in Liège
(Belgium) and Luxembourg. He was a collaborator
of Anna Sui (New York) for two collections and
was an assistant to Annemie Verbeke (Brussels).
He has created the costumes for several theatre
and dance productions and is a regular collaborator
of choreographer Meg Stuart / Damaged Goods (Brussels
/ Berlin). In 2008 Jean-Paul won two awards at
the International Fashion Festival in Hyères (France),
which led to the creation of a capsule collection
for the French brand 123. He recently founded
his own brand, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, and presents
his first women's ready-to-wear collection during
Paris Fashion Week in March 2011. All Jean-Paul’s
creations reveal an overflowing imagination and
he eloquently succeeds in communicating his optimistic
universe where originality and offbeat style go
hand in hand with a playful irreverence for convention
and the generally accepted. Jean-Paul Lespagnard
wants to offer luxury, not material luxury but
the real thing: the freedom to be who you want
to be.
Celia
Vela [Barcelona]
She
has shown at Barcelona’s Gaudí catwalk in 1996,
1997 and 1998. Since 1999 she has shown individually
at different locations in Barcelona. Since 1998
she has had her own shop in Figueres. In 2003
the Figueres shop was extended to include a new
space especially for brides. She featured at the
Spain Fashion Fairs at Tokyo and Osaka of 1998
and 1999. From January 2000 she has participated
at the international Fashion Fair in Tokyo. In
February 2000 www.celiavela.com went online. From
2001 until 2006 she participated at the Cibeles-SIMM
space. In 2003 and 2004 she unveiled her collections
at the Atmosphère room in Paris. In 2005 she reached
an agreement with the luxury brand “Agua de Sevilla”
(water of Seville) to both design and produce
an exclusive line for women labelled “Celia Vela
for Agua de Sevilla”. Since October 2005 she has
held an exhibition entitled “Celia Vela – 10 years,
10 fashion looks” at Figueres Museum with the
10th anniversary of the brand. In 2007 she was
a part of Bread & Butter Barcelona. She has had
a permanent showroom in Tokyo since 2009. Since
2010 she has featured at Barcelona’s 080 show.
She regularly participates at conferences about
design and fashion and has done so since 1998.
Hexa
by Kuho [PARIS]
Jung
Kuho is a Korean fashion designer based in Seoul.
A graduate of Parson’s School of Design, Jung
is also a certified Cordon Bleu chef (he once
owned a restaurant near NYU) as well as the Creative
Director of Samsung’s fashion division, where
he oversees several sold-in-Asia-only women’s
collections as well as Samsung’s license brands
Nina Ricci and 10 Corso Como.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP6 Valentin Yudashkin [Moscow], Justicia
Ruano [Barcelona], Marc Stone [Zurich]
"Valentin
Yudashkin [Moscow]
He
was born on October 14, 1964 in Bakovka community,
Odintsovo District, Moscow Region. In 1986 he
graduated from the Moscow Industrial College with
honours, having upheld two degree works at the
same time: “History of the costume” and “Makeup
and decorative cosmetics”. In 1987 he created
his first collection, consisting of 150 models.
In 1991 his collection was brought to Paris and
made an immense impression upon the experienced
French public. Since that time his new collections
have been traditionally shown in Paris. In 1997
the boutique “Valentin Yudashkin” was opened in
Moscow, in Kutuzovsky avenue, and in 1999 the
jewellery and perfume series “Valentin Yudashkin”
was launched at the Fashion House “Valentin Yudashkin”.
This was a joint project with the French company
“Parour”. The models of Valentin Yudashkin are
kept at the Louvre Museum of Costume, at the Californian
Fashion Museum, at the Moscow State Museum of
History and at the International Museum of the
Olympic Games. He is honoured worker of arts of
the RF, full member of the Academy of Social Sciences,
honorary academician of the Russian Academy of
Arts, a corresponding member of the Paris Syndicate
of High Fashion and Ready-Made Clothes.
Justicia
Ruano [Barcelona]
Following
a solid upward trajectory in the world of design,
creating and being responsible for the artistic
direction of different brands, in 2009 she decides
to go it alone with the launching of her very
own collection. Her passion for fashion, women,
femininity and her fascination for materials and
shapes, have driven her to create a perfect collection
for the woman of today. Purified designs of sleek
lines - and richly ornamented - which lead us
to dream of the elegance of bygone eras. From
her studio in Barcelona and showroom in London,
the collections from Justicia Ruano seduce the
women of today and the most demanding buyers.
Marc
Stone [Zurich]
Marc
Stone has developed his clothing brand as a holistic
concept influenced by contemporary art, journeys,
music, theatre and film. Marc Stone combines classic,
modern style with subtle futuristic touches. The
effortless minimalist spirit of each collection
comes from working quality and hi-tech fabrics.
Colours are subtle, and dictated by the feel of
the season. The story of MARC STONE started in
Zürich in the multicultural district circle four.
As a progressive fashion brand MARC STONE stands
for minimalist design, which boasts clean lines
and innovative looks. The brand sells its products
in a variety of international showrooms (Paris,
Milan, Berlin, Seoul, Singapore and New York)
and at numerous international trade shows.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP7 Dawid Tomaszewski [Berlin] , Yerse
[Barcelona] ,Glaw [Berlin]
"Dawid
Tomaszewski [Berlin]
Dawid
Tomaszewski, born on November 21, 1980 in Gdansk,
Poland, in is an art fashion designer currently
dividing his time between London, United Kingdom
and Berlin, Germany. His style is a merging of
extravagance, appreciation of detail. Tomaszewski
studied at London College of Fashion and Akademie
der Künste Berlin. He also studied history of
art at University of Fine Arts in Poznan. In 2008
he took part in a TV show the next fashion talent
and was selected to design a bag for Design Hotels.
In the same year he designed a charity t-shirt
for Hallhuber. 2008 was the year, when he commenced
artistic collaboration with artist and photographer
Michal Martychowiec. The following year brought
the Designer for tomorrow competition, where he
got into the final. At the end of 2008 he launched
a label under his own name. He was awarded with
Young designer award [1] in January 2010. Additionally
he exhibited at the Premium exhibition in Berlin.
That collection brought him several publications
in Vogue, Elle, Vanity Fair, and other magazines.
The Spring/Summer 2011 collection Torqued Elipses,[2][3]
inspired by renown artist Richard Serra brought
a great deal of interest toward his label.[4]
It was presented at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Week Berlin and Fashion Week Poland in Lódz. By
the end of this season he intends to launch a
second line called Dawid Tomaszewski Studio that
is going to be more casual. By now he constantly
presents his collections at the fashion shows
like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Generó
i Domènech , Yerse [Barcelona]
Yerse
was founded by Lluís Generó i Domènech in 1964
in Sabadell and was the leading knitwear brand
for many years. Forty years later, Yerse undergoes
a major transformation towards the achievement
of some very ambitious business objectives and
in order to do so, has adapted to the new times,
following a strategy of business diversification
based on design and innovation. Today our collection
are sold through over 1 200 points of sale in
Spain and the rest of Europe. We distribute through
multi-brand stores, two stores of our own and
brand spaces in department stores like El Corte
Inglés. We put out two seasonal collections, two
capsule collections (Super Summer and Special
Edition) plus a collection of accessories.
Glaw
[Berlin]
Urban
elegance with a slight touch of psychedelic femininity
and refreshing cuts are the basis of the Berlin
based fashion label GLAW. Nostalgic elements of
times gone by reflect the diverse artistic sources
of inspiration of founders Jesko Wilke and Maria
Poweleit who got to know each other at the fashion
school ESMOD in Berlin. After having graduated
in 2011 both decided to join their creative forces
to create the high-end fashion label Glaw which
portrays their vision of 21st century women’s
clothing honing in on a cross between female power
and fragileness.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 Ep08 Kilian Kerner [Berlin], Laura Figueras
SUR, Valavanis Laskaris
"Kilian
Kerner [Berlin]
For
the eleventh consecutive year KILIAN KERNER is
in July 2013 with a show represented at the Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Week in Berlin. After the anniversary
show in January, the label continues to focus
on the fashion location in the capital city and
is at the same time new ways: "One feels that
the label takes on a new dimension. I am very
pleased to present a refined look KILIAN KERNER
in Berlin in July and am also looking forward
to the debut in London, "said Kilian Kerner about
the upcoming season. "DO NOT LISTEN TO WITH DREAMS"
is the appropriate title for the new collection.
"The collection is set in a world in which anything
can happen and may happen happened. It comes to
free himself of all constraints and conventions,
"says the designer the basic idea behind the designs.
Make simple cuts on patchwork, patterns and prints
are combined unconventional. The focus of the
design is the bold play with colors and shapes.
The inspiration of the dream world is also reflected
in the show concept. For the catwalk in Berlin,
the paint manufacturer Diessner developed a coating
with colors of the Italian brand VALPAINT that
is applied by hand and can give the impression
of a sky. The project "fashion and music" sets
Kilian Kerner again with the Singer and songwriter
Mads Langer order. The Danish singer will accompany
the models on the catwalk as a live act and play
four songs from his upcoming album "In synthesis
waters". For the show KILIAN KERNER is supported
by Grundig in the third season. As a new partner
Kilian Kerner also the company Blackberry win,
for which he also serves as a promotional ambassador
immediately. Following the success of previous
seasons and KILIAN KERNER store openings in the
UK, in February this year, the label still directed
from internationally. After the kick-off show
in Berlin and exhibitions on leading European
fashion fairs, KILIAN KERNER presented in September
2013 for the first time at London Fashion Week.
Laura
Figueras - SUR [Barcelona]
Barcelona-born
Laura Figueras launched her first brand, Bambi
by Laura in 2003. The brand quickly became a staple
feature in discerning boutiques across the world,
from Tokyo to Paris, London and New York. Numerous
collaborations followed, with Topshop, Roxy Heart,
CocaCola Light among others. In 2009 she moved
to London, and in 2012 began work on a long-term
passion, the creation of a new kind of luxury
label, Sur. The brand is distinguished by an uncompromising
approach to quality and provenance. As such, fabrics
are sourced in the UK, Spain and Italy and manufacture
takes place in traditional ateliers in and around
Barcelona. Since its debut in 2012 the brand has
received critical acclaim for its elegant wearable
and sophisticated looks.
Valavanis
Laskaris [ATHENS]
Born
on the North eastern Aegean island of Samothraki,
Laskaris moved to Athens, to pursue his dream
of becoming a couturier. After graduating from
College, eager to learn all the secrets of his
craft, he started working as an apprentice with
Greece's top couturiers and gradually developed
his skills as a designer while at the same time
perfecting his exceptional eye and gift for intricate
embroidery - which remains an important part of
his designs to this day. The essence of Laskaris's
style combines the timeless elegance of haute
couture with an acute awareness of contemporary
fashion trends. Laskaris believes that "a good
couturier is a bit like a plastic surgeon: creating
waists where there are none, removing inches from
where they should not be, investing brides with
a figure they did not know they possess!"
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP9 Arrey Kono [Berlin], Xavier Zazo
and Clara Brull [Barcelona], AF Vandervost [Antwerp]
"Arrey
Kono [Berlin]
As
an artist, Arrey Kono is a remarkable shooting
star and has an excellent reputation in the international
world of fashion. Her fashion is sold in more
than 35 countries worldwide. Her brand is a permanent
fixture at the KaDeWe in Berlin and the Oberpollinger
in Munich since October 2012. Her brand embodies
instinct and passion, her fashion is artful, young
and sexy.
Xavier
Zazo and Clara Brull [Barcelona]
Xavier
Zazo and Clara Brull are the designers behind
the avant-garde Catalan female fashion firm zazo&brull.
Their professional career has seen them participate
at fairs such as Bread&Butter, Rendez-vous in
Paris, Modefabriek in Amsterdam and MQ in Vienna.
Their collections have also been on display on
the catwalk at 080 Barcelona Fashion and the Valencia
Fashion Week, and they have been invited to participate
at the Barcelona bridal show Pasarela Gaudí, at
the Bolivia Moda fashion-event in Santa Cruz and
the SUL Fashion Week in Brazil. At the third international
"El Botón -Mango Fashion Awards”, zazo&brull were
chosen as one of the ten finalists as the only
Spanish representatives.
AF
Vandervost [Antwerp]
Belgian
husband-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx
launched their first collection in Paris in 1998
after graduating from the Fashion School of the
Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. They launched
a shoe collection in 2003 and naturally segued
into a lingerie line three years later. The pair
is known for their deft contrasts in fabrics,
textures, and colors, often layering silky lingerie-inspired
pieces with tailored jackets, reworked white cotton
button-downs, or dramatic capes.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP10 Dimitri [Berlin] Guillermina Baeza
[Barcelona] Stephane Hahn [PARIS]
"Dimitri
[Berlin]
The
35-year-old designer, whose full name is Dimitrios
Panagiotopoulos, trained at the well-known ESMOD
fashion design school before going on to earn
a master’s degree in Fashion Design at the ISTITUTO
MARANGONI in Milan. The son of a Greek father
and an Italian mother, displayed an affinity for
fashion even as a child. He has been fascinated
by it ever since, and worked for such renowned
designers as Jil Sander, Hugo Boss and Vivienne
Westwood before starting out on his own in 2007.DIMITRI
stands for quality, accuracy and personality.
A passion for music, harmony between accurate
tailoring and styling as well as slim feminine
silhouettes with a certain something defines his
design. Dimitrios designs clothes for women with
self-confidence; women of all types and personalities
– strong women with a clear sense of personal
style. The line between extreme opposites, such
as soft/hard or innocent/corrupt, is what makes
DIMITRI so exciting, and reflects the vibrant
strength of Italian elegance.
Guillermina
Baeza [Barcelona]
The
designer Guillermina Baeza was born in the Spanish
protectorate of Morocco. In the 60s she moved
to Barcelona and the in the 70’s started her professional
career that took her in the 80’s to exhibit at
major European fashion shows. Her continued presence
on the catwalks has created a unique style, that
underscores the tenet of the Guillermina Baeza
philosophy: "Swimwear and lingerie are not mere
accessories. Today they are as important as outer
garments." The great merit of Guillermina Baeza
has always been to adapt to the needs of the market,
thanks to her intuition, covering different segments
of the same in terms of styles, tastes and ages.
Currently, the designer’s daughter, Belén Larruy,
also works with her, directing the creative team.
Stephane
Hahn [PARIS]
22/4
is based upon the idea of redrawing the parameters
that define and divide men’s and women’s fashion.
The basic mathematical equation 2+2=4 in an industry
where exacting measurements and technical proportions
form the foundation indicates 22/4’s high quality
demand the brand has. The label’s discreetly luxurious
gender-liberalized style is the principle and
base of each collection and always based on reinterpreted
traditional masculine tailoring techniques. It
is a distillation of the classical men’s wear
style that characterize 22/4’s identity. Superior
Italian fabrics meet pioneering construction imbued
with a reverence for age-old skills drawn primarily
from the world of men’s tailoring. The desire
to create clothes and being driven by an attention
for details with an eye for craft, quality and
modern luxury are the engine of the creative director,
Stephanie Hahn. After gaining valuable experience
working in Berlin Stephanie Hahn decided to launch
her own label in Düsseldorf. There she is working
with a core of high skilled staff to create 22/4’s
hand-tailored, precise crafted clothes.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP11 Satu Maaranen [Helsinki], Natalie
Capell [Barcelona], Schumacher
"Satu
Maaranen [Helsinki]
Finnish
designer Satu Maaranen competed against nine other
designers in the South of France, to be crowned
winner of the 2013 Hyères Festival for Fashion
and Photography. Her winning collection, entitled
Garment Landscape, is a bold display of colour
and extreme structured shapes. Inspired by the
Land Art movement and 1960s haute couture, Garment
Landscape is a collection of contrasts, where
nature meets innovative fashion design. Satu's
experimental use of colour and dimension, is what
makes her sculptural tailoring and distinctive
creative vision, a truly winning enterprise.
Natalie
Capell [Barcelona]
Since
the creation of her first dress at age 14, Natalie
Capell has been dedicated to creating exceptional
women’s clothing as a means of expression. She
returned to her Catalan roots after graduating
from Shenkar College of Design in Tel Aviv and
established her brand in Barcelona in 2002. The
brand embodies gentleness and strength at the
same time, comfort and elegance, a reflection
of the way of life of today's woman. Along with
her studio team, she is dedicated to developing
clothes that offer an alternative interpretation
of modern femininity. After years of experience
and research, gem-like pieces are created, noted
for their interplay of transparencies and manual
embroidery work. The boutique is an intimate space
which hides a workshop round back, reminiscent
of turn of the century ateliers in Paris. It is
a place hidden in an alley of the old city, whose
secret is spread by word of mouth since more than
a decade ago…
Dorothee
Schumacher [Berlin]
Dorothee
Schumacher combines artisan couture with a modern
lifestyle, which strongly expressed also in this
collection: elegant clothes suitable for everyday
met extraordinary detail and high quality materials.
To design "favorite pieces" for the most sophisticated
wardrobes in the world, is the passionate desire
of the designer. And she has succeeded with this
collection for sure! All that remains is to wait
until the collection will be represented in more
than 600 international fashion houses in over
40 countries.
2006,
Schumacher was on the costumes for the Hollywood
movie The Devil Wears Prada where Anne Hathaway
and Meryl Streep were equipped accordingly.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP12 Ángel Vilda, Brain&Beast [Barcelona],
Vanessa Bruno [PARIS], Riani [Berlin]
"Ángel
Vilda, Brain&Beast [Barcelona]
Brain&Beast
was born in 2010; Founded by Ángel Vilda, who
previously managed his own brand, César Olivar,
with an extensive background in costume design,
and Verónica Raposo, designer and former student
of Ángel and César, who both held teaching positions
in fashion design. This collection reflects on
games, riddles, hieroglyphics of apparent structural
simplicity, that respond to complex geometrical
equations in which color and materials form parts
of codes where nothing is random. Brain&Beast
is presenting garments that combine emotion and
reason, with a strong influence of contemporary
culture, as well as a large dose of sophistication
and a sense of humor.
Vanessa
Bruno [PARIS]
Vanessa
Bruno was introduced to the fashion industry at
an early age. The daughter of a Danish supermodel
and founder of French fashion house Emmanuelle
Khan, Bruno was surrounded by the industry. By
15 she was followed in her mothers footsteps modelling
and began to lend her talents to singing and acting.
Familiar with photo shoots and runways, Bruno
sought work else where and turned her attention
to fashion design. Enriching herself with clothing
and couture, she decided to focus herself fully
on designing. Bruno developed her skills working
for Dorothée Bis and later on, Michael Klein.
With her talent growing by 1992 Bruno had launched
her own label. Creating a simple yet sophisticated
look, her clothes offered a bohemian, modern style.
Three years later Bruno went on to launch Athé,
a complimentary line to Vanessa Bruno and by 1998
she opened her first boutique in Paris. Bruno
embarked on several collaborations with designer
and filmmaker Stephanie Di Giusto, designing clothes
for short films, including “A Visual Poetry”,
starring Kate Bosworth, the face of Vanessa Bruno
since 2012. A favourite with fashion conscious
celebrities, Bruno’s clothes are effortless and
romantic. Fresh and elegant, Bruno’s famous Lune
bag became a must have item, along with her Strass
carrying bag.
Riani
[Berlin]
RIANI
is Italian lightness paired with German high class
workmanship. We work entirely with premium, noble
and some exclusively made materials. Thereby the
perfect cut has a specific meaning - after all,
a garment from RIANI should not only look fabulous
on hanger, but also on the wearer. But we do even
more. With love and accuracy we pay attention
to consistently surprising details, as we are
aware that our customers are fond of this. RIANI
is fashion which reveals its own emphasized personality
and not only pretends to be a personality. RIANI
is fashion which always dresses you optimal. At
a brunch with friends, at a meeting with business
associates or at a candle light dinner with your
beloved. Sometimes it is not so easy to discover
a woman’s character. After all, there are lots
of very different facets. This is not different
at RIANI. RIANI is elitist, but not narrow minded.
Traditional, but not conservative. Glamorous,
but not trashy. You have to experience it by yourself,
and only after that you will realize: Jürgen Buckenmaier
lays the cornerstone for the RIANI success story
in his home town of Schorndorf with his so-called
“Bucki” trousers. Bucki trousers become a huge
hit, with over 100,000 pairs being sold. Martine
Cruse brings in a wealth of experience in fashion
management. She is appointed second Managing Director
of RIANI GmbH alongside Jürgen Buckenmaier. Ulrich
Schulte becomes the new Head Designer at RIANI.
Alongside him, there are five more designers involved
in creating new and inspiring collections.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP13 Alexis Reyna [Barcelona], Anne-Valerie
Hash [PARIS], Athina Korda [ATHENS]
Alexis
Reyna [Barcelona]
Barcelona
born, Alexis Reyna has been enormously influenced
by the artistic professions of his parents. This,
along with his discovery of the erotic film Emmanuelle
was to bring about the flourishing of his love
for art. This interest never waned during his
time as a student at the French Lycée in Barcelona,
nor during his stay in Paris where he composed
several poems and musical pieces. In 1995, he
began studying Economics at Barcelona University,
it was during this time that a lover 20 years
older than him allowed him to discover the world
of fashion. Following a self-taught training period,
he had the chance to work for Stylemode in Barcelona
as well as for other brands as a designer. Very
soon he created his first collections and worked
alongside J. Lindeberg, Filippa K and later with
M.I.A. After an untypically rich stint, he studied
an MA at Central Saint Martins and worked in Asia
for three years. Winner of the Fall/Winter 2012
Best Collection at Barcelona Fashion Week. Alexis
Reyna has established himself in Barcelona from
2008 onwards. His latest collection, ‘The Country
Code’, unveiled at the last Barcelona Fashion
Week in January can be found at TOTEM, an international
agency based in Paris.
Anne-Valerie
Hash [PARIS]
Hash
graduated from the chambre Syndicale dela Couture
Parisienne in 1992. Design gigs at Nina Ricci,
Chloé, and Chanel followed, and in 1995, Hash
began a small bridal business. Five years later,
she connected with Phillippe Elkoubi, now her
businesspartner, and launched a signature collection
of handmade and ready-to-wear pieces, inspired
by her whimsical muse: 14-year-old Parisian, Lou
Liza Lesage. In 2001, Anne Valerie Hash presented
her first ready-to-wear collection on the Paris
couture circuit, where she continues to show.
Her quirky, deconstructed looks – a dress crafted
out of tailored men’s trousers, in particular
– generated considerable buzz. But instead of
pushing for megabrand status, Hash has kept her
operation relatively small scale. Still, her masculine-feminin
a esthetic – that’s gonemore girlies as of late
– has cultivated a loyal following globally. Andin
spring 2007, Bergdorf Goodman was the first to
snyp up Hash’s new handbag line of buttery soft
satchels trimmed with temininetrills.
Athina
Korda [Athens]
The
style , inspired by the music and the absolute
geometric shapes , determined and characterized
by strict lines and dark color tones . Daring
and experimenting with different materials , often
contradictory , shaping them so that creates emphasis
on various pieces of the garment , regenerate
body parts. The main design goal is to shape garments
which can be redefined according to the woman
who wears them and also to flatter the female
body .
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP14 Juan Pedro Lopez [Barcelona], Andrea
Karg, Allude [Munich], Anne Gorke [Berlin]
"Juan
Pedro Lopez [Barcelona]
Juan
Pedro López (Barcelona), graduated in design in
2000. In 1999 he wins first prize at the Smirnoff
Fashion Awards Spain and is a finalist at their
international final in Hong Kong. In 2002, he
is a finalist at the Mittelmoda Fashion Award,
Italy. Since 2000 he has unveiled six collections
at the Gaudí Young Designers Show, until 2005,
the year in which López made his Paris debut and
on top of that, is invited to the Almaty Fashion
Week in Kazakstan. Present for the second time
at the Paris Fashion-Show in March 2006, he returns
to the Barcelona stage. Invited to the first edition
of 080 Barcelona, since 2007 he has combined his
work as a designer along with that of a stylist.
Allude
[Munich]
Andrea
Karg is a native from Dusseldorf, now resident
in Munich. Andrea spent her students years working
as a model while she completed her law degree.
At the early stage in her career, she collected
innumerable experiences as part of the fashion
industry, working in Europe`s fashion capitals.
In 1993, she left legal affairs behind, and invested
in her passion for fashion, with the launch of
a self-designed cashmere knitwear collection branded
ALLUDE.
Anne
Gorke [Berlin]
ANNE
GORKE originated in Weimar, the place where the
Bauhaus was founded. The Bauhaus spirit and creative
energy is still alive in a young design scene
today and comes across in ANNE GORKE’s designs
that show both, a well self-assured functionality
and an elegant femininity. Architectural, silhouette-oriented
cuts are a distinctive characteristic of ANNE
GORKE’s designs. ANNE GORKE works exclusively
with organic textiles of the best caliber. The
production is designed in Germany, which not only
ensures fair conditions, but also meets the highest
standard of quality and craftsmanship. ANNE GORKE
works closely with local workshops and craft businesses
and uses exclusively organic textiles and fairly
produced materials. An increasing number of customers
are able to live happily, safe in the knowledge
that they are making their own contribution towards
sustainable awareness. This is why it is ANNE
GORKE’s credo, to give customers the chance to
fulfil this need without having to compromise
on style, quality and aesthetics.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP15 Carmen Emanuela Popa[Bucharest],
Josep Abril [Barcelona], Diane Pernet [Manish
Arora Film]
"Carmen
Emanuela Popa [Bucharest]
"What
inspires me… Drama of this world with all it entails,
wars, famine, poverty .. in contrast to the “blessed”
world with peace and joy of living, as I tried
to juxtapose two complementary worlds in my last
collection for the last season SS 2013 “Contemporary
Unknown Soldier”. On the one hand the coat of
unknown soldier, hero of a real war or of every
day wars, as each of us … and peace offered by
the image of a ballerina tutu, including the idea
of innocence that actually soldier wears with
him everywhere .. Sometimes, in the morning ..
when I come back to the reality of this world
.. I simply see these images! .. divine characters
that basically talk about ourselves..."
Josep
Abril [Barcelona]
Born
in Barcelona in 1962. He studies Fine Art. He
studies Design and Fashion at the “Escola d’Arts
i Tècniques de la Moda” (EATM) in Barcelona. He
lives and works in Barcelona. He creates his own
firm in 1996. JOSEP ABRIL is a collection for
men. It is currently commercially available via
showrooms and multi-brand outlets. He unveils
his catwalk shows in Madrid and Barcelona from
2003 to 2009. He has been Creative Director for
the “ARMAND BASI ONE HOME” collection, presented
in Paris since 2007. In 2006 his “BESPOKE” project
for made-to-measure tailoring sees the light of
day. In 2007 he forms ABRIL STUDIO, a studio for
creating fashion CONCEPTS and PROJECTS. He launches
the line “UNIFORMED BY” of design uniformity.
He creates the costumes for shows, theater and
opera. He gives classes and workshops at different
Design Schools: I.E.D., ESDI, ELISAVA and FELICIDAD
DUCE. He operates as an external consultant and
Art Director. In 1991 he wins the first GAUDÍ
Prize for new designers. In 2004 he receives the
GQ Award for best designer for men in the country.
In 2008 he receives the “Barcelona es Moda” (Barcelona
is fashion) accolade for the best professional.
"MANISH
ARORA DIANE PERNET [PARIS]
"HOLI HOLY - A FILM BY MANISH ARORA" BY BHARAT
SIKKA from Diane Pernet's ASVOFF PRO 1 month ago
not yet rated DIRECTOR: BHARAT SIKKA / CONCEPT:
MANISH ARORA / COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: INDIA / DURATION:
5'00" / DESIGNER: MANISH ARORA / MUSIC: BISHI
BATTACHARYA / CAST: BISHI BHATTACHARYA / DIRECTOR
OF PHOTOGRAPHY: TASSADUQ HUSSAIN / ARTISTIC DIRECTOR:
MANISH ARORA AND BHARAT SIKKA / STYLIST: MANISH
ARORA
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S05 EP16 Konstantinos Mitrovgenis [ATHENS]
Albéniz Zúñiga [Barcelona] Umasan [Berlin]
"Konstantinos
Mitrovgenis [Athens]
"Konstantinos Mitrovgenis was born in Athens.
He studied fashion design at Zer-Fam School. He
has showcased four times in AXDW. At 10th AXDW,
he participated in the competition of «New Designers
Awards» and he won the awards of «Best New Designer»
and «Best Catwalk». As the winner of the first
award «Best New Designer», he had the opportunity
to participate in the organization «Bridge of
Fashion» in Germany where he represented Greece
among other fashion designers from 11 different
countries. His style is different, modern and
unique. He is a pioneer by creating lighted 3D
structures, dresses with animations like the dress
with the 800 eyes that blink, modular clothes
like the bag that turns into a blouse and dress
pants made into a coat.
Albéniz
Zúñiga [Barcelona]
Maite
Albéniz Zúñiga born on September 4, 1990 in Vitoria-Gasteiz
moved to Barcelona at 19 to train as a fashion
designer at Felicidad Duce School, from which
she graduated this year. During the course, she
made ??different bespoke garments for private
clients and, after completing her final Project
at the end of her studies, in which she had already
decided on men’s fashion, she opted to found her
own brand, Albéniz. Albéniz, is the vision of
the man of your dreams and it is he who, in this
first staging, debuts. Her style is characterized
by delicacy and pulchritude in the selection of
fabrics and trimmings, causing both garments and
accessories to flaunt both a glam and eccentric
soul. COLLECTION - ANGEL Angel, is a men's collection
for spring / summer 2014. My inspiration comes
from singer Ray Charles, who, in his concerts,
sported tailored suits made of bold and innovative
fabrics. This is the main concept I develop in
the collection. Start with a sober pattern and
make it out of striking and exquisite fabrics.
Regarding the line, I took Mick Jagger as a reference,
creating a slim clean vertical silhouette. The
color scheme is pastel greens, blues, pinks and
yellows along with whites and golds, creating
a lucid, attractive and fresh image. The gold
thread embroidery inspired by matador costumes
together with Swarovskis makes for a daring and
sophisticated style. The sumptuous fabrics and
trimmings create a unique style fusing different
textures and completing the final impression than
could be that of a Rock star.
Umasan
[Berlin]
Anja
and Sandra Umann are identical twins who are identically
fascinated with the world of art, literature,
eastern philosophy, traditional yoga and a higher
consciousness. While Anja Umann went on to study
Fashion Design to become a designer in the high
end avant-garde world of fashion, working successfully
for Strenesse, Wunderkind and most impressively
Yohji Yamamoto in Paris and Tokyo – Sandra Umann
decided to follow her passion for visual Art and
Media and became a well known photographer (published
in Vogue, Gala, Bunte and many more) working as
an artistic/creative director for many forward
thinking global projects. The brand UMASAN is
much more than fashion, it is their world, dedicated
towards all things esthetic, sustainable, vegan
and mindful. “Our demand and at the same time
our motivation was to create something new which
goes far beyond the production of clothing and
establishment of a fashion brand. As innovation
in the fashion industry also means to correct
luxury mistakes, to re-define collective values
and to increase individual values. This was reason
enough for us to found UMASAN in 2010.“
|
|
FASHION FOLK Series 4 [16x26min
episodes]
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S04 ep1 Steven Tai , Barbara i Gongini &
Jean-Pierre Braganza
"STEVEN
TAI
Canadian
designer Steven Tai is a 2011 graduate of Central
Saint Martins. He has worked at companies such
as Bless, Viktor & Rolf and Stella McCartney.
In 2012 he was invited to Hyeres where he won
the prestigious Chloe prize. His work has already
been featured in Vogue, Elle, Dazed and Confused
and websites including We Are The Market and This
is Paper. He draws inspiration from the mundane
aspects of daily life that, in large urban cities
are frequently overlooked.
BARBARA
í GONGINI
A
Faroese brand based in Denmark. The aim of the
company is to create Nordic clothing based on
a conceptual approach to the process, where experiments
with forms provide the setting for the visual
motive in the design. Barbara í Gongini creates
clothing, which is at the leading edge of the
trade. Barbara í Gongini furthermore participates
very actively in the artistic debate in the Nordic
countries. During the work, interdisciplinary
co-operation with other artists within music,
photography, film, etc, is emphasised and this
co-operation nourishes inspiration during the
design process itself.
Jean
Pierre Braganza
Born
in Canada. Having graduated from Central Saint
Martins, Jean-Pierre worked with Roland Mouret
before setting up his own label. SIGNATURES: “Constructed
tailoring." IDEAL CLIENT: “Strong and confident
with good taste. She’s not afraid to embrace the
dark side of life.”
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S02 ep2 Shiatzy Chen, Odeur & Eleni Kyriacou
"Shiatzy
Chen
Shiatzy Chen is a Taiwanese fashion house, whose
founder and brand innovator Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia
is often referred to as the Chanel of Taiwan,and
is the eponym of her luxury goods brand.. She
was born in 1951 in Changhua, Taiwan and founded
the company in 1978. The brand spirit for Shiatzy
Chen is "neo-Chinese chic", which transfers
historical Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion
design. Shiatzy adopts Chinese aesthetics in combination
with western cuttings and Chinese handcrafting
techniques.The brand is known for its distinctive
design features drawn from Chinese culture such
as qipao collars, knot buckles, or patterns in
a Chinese ink painting.
Eleni
Kyriacou
Eleni
Kyriacou is a London based womenswear fashion
and textiles designer. Eleni launched her brand
in October 2011 with her red carpet collection
Women as Treasure. She studied textile design
at Central Saint Martins where she won an MA prize
for best design for sustainability. Her BSc was
in architecture at The Bartlett, UCL. She apprenticed
for the late Alexander Mcqueen in menswear and
accessories for womenswear and for Emilio de la
Morena, before taking the step to launch her own
label.
Odeur
Odeur
was founded in Stockholm in 2006 as a brand experiment,
using a spec white, light and clean scent instead
of a visual logotype to label the graphic and
dramatic, yet playful garments. The 1rst collection
included a few t-shirt styles that where distributed
amongst a few initial clients in Sweden and Japan.
Today Odeur is designed by Petter Hollström and
Gorjan Lauseger and has spread to 17 countries,
selling jeans, outerwear, accessories and fashion
clothing. The collection is represented at, amongst
others, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Temporary
Showroom in Berlin, Oki-Ni in London and OAK NYC
in New York."
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S04 ep3 Jersper Hovring, Isabel Marant &
Makis Tselios
"Jesper
Høvring
Supreme
dressmaker Jesper Høvring creates dresses and
gowns for some of the most prominent customers
in Denmark. With a background as a costumier in
theatre, Høvring is now the main purveyor of ladies'
formalwear in Denmark, creating some of the most
elaborate numbers on the Scandinavian fashion
scene.
Isabel
Marant
Isabel
Marant is a French fashion designer known for
her bohemian aesthetic and fervently coveted creations.
Embodying a casual, perfectly tousled but never
over-thought look, her clothes are worn by some
of the world's most fashionable stars including
Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Kate Bosworth, Rachel
Weisz and Alexa Chung.
Makis
Tselios
Makis
Tselios is not just a fashion designer, but is
a true artist from the legendary Ionian Islands.
He was born on the island of Ithaki. At the age
of seven his family moved to the mainland seaport
of Piraeus where he grew up. He has created his
own history through his innovative designs and
unprecedented fashion shows which, for the first
time in Greece, featured international models.
Some of the more important achievements of the
firm were the designing of uniforms for Olympic
Airlines in 1980, a collaboration with Neiman-Marcus
in 1983, and the designing of the women's uniforms
for the Greek Olympic teams for the 1984 Games
in Los Angeles."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep4 Celebrity Skin, Corrie Nielsen &
Asger Juel Larson
"Celebrity
Skin
Celebrity
Skin are a dynamic, avant garde designer duo.
Head designer Dimitris Strepkos and his assistant
Eleni Mparla showed their first collection in
April 2009. Tim Burton's Impossible Nightmare
collection won 2 awards. Best Designer - Best
Catwalk
Corrie
Nielsen
Corrie
was born in Florida and moved to London in 2000.
Corrie studied at Central Saint Martins. From
2000-2006 she worked for Vivienne Westwood. She
won Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden in 2010. SIGNATURES:
“The daywear has a witty take on traditional men’s
tailoring. Our bespoke eveningwear makes a truly
original statement for gala events.” IDEAL CLIENT:
“She has a strong sense of style and is comfortable
and confident in her own identity. She expects
quality, craftsmanship and custom in her everyday
wear.” TRADEMARK PIECE: “The bias-cut knot tie
shirt.”
Asger
Juel Larsen
Asger
Juel Larsen is a designer that marks and merits
the adventurous and rule breaking reinvention
of modern menswear. Hailing from Denmark but truely
establishing his art in the UK, Asger graduated
'top of the class' at the London College of Fashion
in 2009 with a BA Menswear Degree, Asger has since
then conquered the masters at the same institution.
His aesthetics have been consistently evolving
during the academic time frame, illustrating ambition
and flare in the imagination. And with placements
alongside John Richmond and Burberry Prorsum included
in the tapestry of his background, the platform
and landscape for Asger's future collections is
bright. His designs are an intoxicating medley
of the past and future, taking inspiration from
historical events and fusing it into a futuristic
sci-fi sphere. The clash of textures play with
ideas of masculine strength and vulnerability.
Asger's aesthetics are both industrial and romantic,
taking the gothic and androgynous to new levels
of sophistication and depth."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep5 JC Castelbajac, Stine Goya &
Miltos
"Jean-Charles
de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC,[1] born 28
November 1949 in Casablanca, Morocco, is a fashion
designer. As the Marquis de Castelbajac, he is
a French nobleman.[2] He has enjoyed international
success with some of his creations, including
a coat of teddy bears worn by pop star Madonna[3]
and by supermodel Helena Christensen in the film
Prêt-à-Porter. Recently JC de Castelbajac has
befriended artists such as M.I.A, Cassette Playa,
Curry & Coco and The Coconut Twins. His fashion
archive was showcased in preparation for his retrospective
"Gallie Rock" in Paris by photographers
Tim and Barry, modelled by Cassette Playa, M.I.A.,
Jammer, Matthew Stone, Slew Dem Crew and more.[4]
As well as his imaginative clothing collections[1][2]
the designer creates home furnishings [3]and has
designed a watch inspired by the childhood favourite,
Lego. In 1979, de Castelbajac married fashion
journalist and model Katherine Lee Chambers. They
had two sons before divorcing, among them Louis-Marie
de Castelbajac. The designer is currently engaged
to actress Mareva Galanter. Jean-Charles is currently
working with American singer Lady Gaga for the
fashion for her next music video.[5]
Stine
Goya,
Stine
Goya, founded by the designer of the same name,
in Copenhagen 2006. Goya introduces her seasonal
collections by setting a mood through her use
of vibrant colour, print and sculptural shaped
pieces. Creating beautiful garments and accessories
Goya combines these features to create wearable
styles that adhere to people who seek authenticity
and individuality in the everyday. After graduating
from Central st. Martins in 2005 with a degree
in fashion and print, and working as fashion editor
at Danish fashion magazine Cover, her debut collection,
'Confetti' was presented and very successfully
received at Copenhagen fashion week February 2007.
With an agenda to influence the direction of Scandinavian
design Stine Goya has experienced widespread acclaim
in the industry for her particular use of colour,
print and for creating silhouettes that compliment
the female form. Since starting her own label
Stine Goya has continuedNoa Noa continuously make
a great effort to make things last. This goes
for the collections, the employees, the shop fittings
- everything.
Miltos
Born
in Athens, Miltos' first contact with fashion
was as a production and sales manager in a well-known
company with silk garments. His experience in
raw materials together with his love for high
quality resulted in starting up his own studio,
while studying fashion at Veloudakis Fashion School.
Feminine lines, all time classic elegance, fresh
style with high class, would be a close description
to his work. Miltos currently works at his studio
in Kolonaki, where he creates pret-a-porter and
haute couture collections, as well as unique bridals."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep6 Henrik Vibskov, Azzaro & 22
"Henrik
Vibskov
Words
by Didder Rønlund I fell head over heels for all
Henrik Vibskov's quirks and curious ideas - indeed,
for the entire energy and atmosphere of the collection,
inside Carlsberg's large bottling hall. And yet
again, I fell for the man himself, and his stone
face as he shuffled in, and took his bow. That
is, what it is called, when the designers enter
the podium, after the finale, and receive their
applause. I saw men in many kinds of trousers
and even more colours, girls who did not hold
back, and everyone wearing the same odd shoes,
which probably could achieve some health labelling.
Some of Vibskov's distinctive hats, with a tall,
round crown, actually cheered you up. Use them
with anything, even with a nice fur coat, if you
have one. A special addition to this - plus vests,
jackets, backpacks, shirts, dresses and blouses
in provocative congestion - was Henrik's sharp
eye for commercial clothing, for stores and target
groups, who neither want to own tailor-made suits
or ties. You need a formidable talent to contain
all that. And Henrik Vibskov has that talent.
Mathilde
Castello Branco
Azzaro's
collections are always named alphabetically by
season. The first season's collection featured
clothing all given names starting with an A, the
next with B names and so on. Azzaro admitted that
he would sometimes skip a letter like Q, X or
Z because it was too hard to find names for those
letters. Azzaro released a wide range of products
including women's and men's clothing lines and
accessories as well as a wide range of fragrances.
in 1975 he created his first fragrance for women,
"Couture", which became his signature
scent. Over time Azzaro became known for his fragrances
as much as his clothing. His favourite colour
was blue as he quoted: "The blue colour is
the colour that suits me". His inspirations
came from the surroundings of his country of birth,
Tunisia: "I let myself get carried by the
atmosphere of the country of my childhood with
its spiced odors, its colors, its flowers and
its perfumes. It is the country where I really
become myself, the country where my preferred
color is everywhere, azure of the sea and the
sky.”
Twenty(2)too
Heart
and soul of the label "twenty (2) too"
is Dan Mihai Zarug. In 2007 he moved to Paris,
where he graduated from ESG with a MABA in „Luxury
Marketing Management” in 2008. After an internship
at the press office TOTEM in Paris, where Mihai
had his first contact with some of the most cutting
edge contemporary designers in Paris, he took
on the job of studio director for Alain Gossuin`s
Paris based studio. His first own collection twenty(2)too
was launched in 2010."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep7 Edith & Ella, Christian Blanken
& Holy Ghost
"Line
Markvardsen. Edith & Ella
Edith
& Ella is a Danish brand which was founded
in 2004 by designer and director Line Markvardsen.
The company started on a wholesale basis but in
2005 Edith & Ella opened the first flagship
boutique in Copenhagen. The feminine and colourful
styles turned out to be a success and made it
possible to open more Edith & Ella boutiques.
Today Edith & Ella has two concept boutiques
in Denmark and a webshop. The brand is also sold
in Sweden, Norway, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium,
France, Spain, Italy,Ireland and Japan. In 2010
Edith & Ella launched their sub-brand called
EPOQUE by Edith & Ella. EPOQUE is a twist
to Edith & Ella. The two brands go very well
hand in hand but both are also very strong individually.
The look of EPOQUE is sharp, edgy and seducing.
EPOQUE is as Edith & Ella sold in Denmark,
Sweden, Norway, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium,
France, Spain, Italy, Ireland and Japan. Edith
& Ella believes in good, long-term business
relations to their valued customers and suppliers.
Owner Line Markvardsen believes that what goes
around comes around and has made this the philosophy
of the brand. She daily makes a great effort to
make Edith & Ella a pleasant business partner
as well as a pleasant company to work for with
a lovely atmosphere.
Christian
Blanken
Christian
was born in the Netherlands but was raised in
the Far East and UK. Christian studied for his
BA at the Academy of Fine Art in Arnhem, Netherlands
and completed his MA at Central Saint Martins.
He has previously designed for Michael Kors, Diane
Von Furstenberg, Harvey Nichols Private Label
and the MaxMara Fashion Group. SIGNATURES: “Clean,
tailored, sharp, luxe and modern, not sweet!”
IDEAL CLIENT: “Charismatic with an artistic side.
She is sensory; she enjoys and understands good
fabric, tailoring and attention to detail. Her
lifestyle requires easy, modern and interesting
pieces.”
HOLY
GHOST
The
three young women Sedina Halilovic, Ivana Bogicevic
and Jelena Radovanovic have shared a deep friendship
for over 10 years. Out of their love for fashion,
in Spring 2010 holyGhost was born. Sedina Halilovic,
The Creative Spirit (born 1982 in Munich): Sedina
has studied Fashion Management at „Akademie für
Mode und Design“ in Munich and is responsible
for the design. Ivana Bogicevic, The Spirit of
Development (born 1980 in Kraljevo/ Serbia): Ivana
studied at the public School of Fashion in Munich
and gained a master in fashion development. She
is responsible for production and quality management.
Jelena Radovanovic, The Managing Spirit (born
1983 in Belgrade/ Serbia): Jelena has graduated
in Econimics at the State University in Munich.
She is the head of Sales and Marketing."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep8 Costume National, Anne-Sofie Madsen
& Paris Valtadoros
"CoSTUME
NATIONAL
An
Italian fashion house founded in 1986 by Ennio
Capasa, Creative Director, and his brother Carlo,
CEO of the Maison, which has its head offices
in Milan. The company produces clothing under
the brands Costume National, Costume National
Homme (for men) and C’N’C (an ‘avant garde “street-couture”
line’[1]) as well as scents including The Trilogy,
Scent Gloss, Scent Cool Gloss, Intense, 21, and
Homme. The company was founded in 1986 in Milan
by Ennio Capasa, fresh from working in Japan as
an assistant to Yohji Yamamoto, and by his brother
Carlo. Its first womenswear collection was presented
in Milan in the same year. In 1991 the ‘Woman
Collection’ was presented in Paris. Between 1995
and 1998 the fashion house opened stores in Milan,
New York, Rome, Los Angeles and Paris.
Anne
Sofie Madsen
With
her 2009 final project from the Royal Danish Academy
of Fine Arts, she took the Danish fashion press
with storm and proved that Danish Design has an
international format. After opening the Copenhagen
Fashion Week with the SS12 collection in 2011,
Anne Sofie Madsen was selected ‘Once to Watch’
by the Vauxhall Fashion Scout, which led to a
show of the AW 12/13 collection in London, Milan,
Kiev, and Saint Petersburg. Anne Sofie Madsen
now presents her SS 2013 collection at Copenhagen
Fashion Week in August. The collection combines
Anne Sofie Madsen's couture look with a commercial
approach, which sees both made-to-order and ready-to-wear
styles, reflecting the designer's time at the
Parisian trend forecaster Peclers and since at
the House of John Galliano. Before graduating,
Anne Sofie Madsen was appointed Junior Designer
at the House of Alexander McQueen in London. Anne
Sofie Madsen's sense of esthetics departs from
the traditional, Danish design and her unique
sartorial skills marks the meeting between airy
materials and somber, avant-garde applications.
All in all the collection is of international
format and once again cements Copenhagen's position
as the most inspiring fashion metropolis of the
North.
Paris
Valtadoros
Paris
Valtadoros was born in Macedonia, Greece. His
apprenticeship in the secrets of female's clothing
commences within the family business in his early
years. As a young man, he's moving to Athens initially
for studies in economics, only to abandon them
after a short period in order to follow his inclination.
At the beginning of his professional life toward
women's garments, he works as purchasing manager
at known clothing company, while at the same time
he cooperates with the national television as
a stylist and with women's magazine as a fashion
advisor. Following the opening of his first prêt
a porter boutique in Naxos Island, he meets his
need to express himself through his personal creations,
by attending the AKTO's course of studies in Fashion
Design, in which he succeeds ."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep9 Ole Yde, Maria Grachvogel & Aslanis
Ole Yde - Copenhagen
"YDE by Ole Yde The collection YDE mixes elements of
tradition, fairy tales and femininity. The aim
of the designer, Ole Yde, is to blend history,
art, quality and esthetics together in order to
create a fresh and refined view of today's woman.
Ole Yde's work is focused on the expressive conveying
of feelings and moods. The Copenhagen based brand
Yde was first launched in 2005, at which time
Ole Yde won the Illum design award for his innovative
and sophisticated creations. In 2010, both the
Silver Thread and the GINEN awards went to Ole
Yde for the new talent and the designer of the
year respectively. His collections aim at reincarnating
the classic feminine beauty using top quality
workmanship and material. For Spring/Summer 2013
Ole Yde continues his dream of attempting to bring
back the gentle, strong and above all elegant
woman.
Maria Grachvogel - London
BACKGROUND: “I decided I wanted to be a fashion designer
aged 8 and I started cutting and making clothes
from around age 12. My initial learning was at
school in the Fashion and Textiles class where
I learned some basics of pattern cutting and assembly.
Then my own fascination for cut, form and drape
led me to develop my own blocks and cutting techniques
which have been the basis of my work. It was always
my dream to be a designer with my own label and
I therefore started my own business when I was
18. I was so determined and focused I didn't even
consider the value working for another designer
would bring.” SIGNATURES: “Contemporary, versatile
pieces that make women feel amazing. I use unconventional
methods of cutting and fitting to create clothes
that work in harmony with a woman’s body.” IDEAL
CLIENT: “A strong, confident woman who is drawn
to my collection. She has a strong sense of her
own personal style.”
Michalis Aslanis - Athens
Michalis Aslanis After the collection "dance of decades"
for the summer 2012, comes along the collection
"dance of decades" for the winter 2012-2013.
Michalis Aslanis was born in Mikra Asia and he
graduated from BAKALO school of Design where he
mastered in decoration, graphic Arts, History
of Art and Theatre. Finally, the dazzling world
of fashion captured his interest since 1974, and
dedicated since, his life and career in fashion.
Today, he is considered to be one of the most
famous Greek designers He has showcased his work
in most European cities. At Paris he represented
Greece in Avenue FOS in a show where the 25years
of French Pret a Porter, were celebrated with
the contribution of the world's most famous designers.
Moreover the French LIBERATION presented his collection
during IGEDO fashion show in Dusseldorf, which
was inspired by the Byzantium years, with excellent
reviews and at the same time the high valued network
CNN covered the event. During the recent years
he was invited by many cities to showcase his
work including, Frankfurt as a guest of the mayor
of Frankfurt, and Princess Caroline of Monaco,
where he took part in a Red Cross Gala. As a guest
of the Turkish Ambassador he participated in a
fashion show in Istanbul and Agira. Every show
of Michalis raises favorable reviews not only
by the Greek Media but also from high valued networks
abroad. His work has a mainly ethnological style,
but his main axis is Greece."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep10 Rebekka Ruetz, Stylianos & Sara
Sachs
"REBEKKA
RUÉTZ - Berlin
The
designer was born in 1984 in Austria and has devoted
her life to fashion and design. In 2008 she graduated
AMD fashion academy Munich. During her studies
Rebekka Ruétz lived and worked in New Delhi, India,
where she found inspiration for her future work.
Also in 2008 the designer won the Cognos Relevance
Award as Best Graduate. After her studies she
worked for the successful British fashion label
PETER PILOTTO. In 2009 Rebekka Ruétz launched
her own fashion label and now meets the world
of fashion design with an incomparable point of
view: here values of generation get together,that
would like to be touched beyond the visible. Therefore
she uses her knowledge in the field of systemic
constellation and her education at TCM-Institute
of Heidelberg to influence her work.
Stylianos
- Crete
Stylianos
is a new, promising haute couturier specialized
in bridal and evening wear. His involvement with
fashion design happened quite naturally for him,
since he comes from a family of couturiers. He
studied business economics, getting a prize for
best academic achievement in 2003. In 2005 he
finished his studies in PANSIK where he presented
three personal collections in the school's fashion
shows and right after that he attended Milan's
legendary Instituto Marangoni where he was taught
by professionals of Gucci, Cavalli, Sergio Rossi
etc. He graduated from his Master's degree with
"cum laude" distinction. For one year
he worked in Milan as a freelance designer.
Sara
Sachs - Copenhagen
Working
simultaneously with performance art and fashion,
Moonspoon Saloon creates collections with an emotional
sensibility founded in the characters of the performances.
Designer Sara Sachs consistently explore new terrain
with her gender bending pieces while keeping a
sense of family to her entire body of work. Her
long time collaboration with painter Tal R, Evren
Tekinoktay and choreographer Ryan Heffington for
their performances at MoCa Los Angeles, Victoria
Miro London, Armory Show New York and Charlottenborg
Palace has placed Moonspoon Saloon on the frontiers
of the art/fashion movement. Moonspoon Saloon
is an endless fascination with the potential of
clothing and body. The new SS13 collection “No
Chocolate” is a return to exclusive materials
and classic themes found in the early collections.
It is also a return to the runway as a stage with
their show Friday the 10th at TAP2."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep11 Antoni&Alison, Rita Pateroni
& David Andersen
Antoni
& Alison - London
"Antoni
Burakowski and Alison Roberts SIGNATURES: “We
have always aspired to make 'zip up and go' pieces.”
IDEAL CLIENT: “An individual who can't believe
their luck in finding a fantastic, inspirational
piece of Antoni & Alison clothing to either
own or just to look at.” TRADEMARK PIECE: “It’s
a dress…
Rita
Pateroni - Athens
The
fashion house Rita Pateroni, was established in
Athens Greece, more than three decades ago. Behind
the label, there is the Pateroni family. Rita
and her daughter Liana are the designers. The
two of them, along with a team of very experienced
staff, are forming an Haute couture atelier, their
only purpose is to make fashion. Our philosophy
is to deliver, true femininity through sheer elegance
and beauty . We want to offer the timelessness
but with high aesthetics . The uniqueness of our
designs, comes through the inspiration of the
designers, and the artistic hands of the women
who are sewing them.
David
Andersen - Copenhagen
Danish
born David Andersen debuted his eponymous collection,
DAVID ANDERSEN in 2007 to instant success, both
critically and commercially. Approaching its forth
year, the collection is represented in 12 countries
expanding abroad Europe, and entering the markets
of Japan and the US. Every year, the David Andersen
shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week keep surprising
the critics and fashion followers, with girls
modeling the menswear collection, or the stunning
performers that give every show a different, almost
engaging feeling. David Andersen graduated from
Glasgow School of Art 2003, where he was awarded
"Best Costume Designer" in 2004. Subsequently,
2004 proved to be an even broader year for recognition
as he was awarded "Wedding Gown of the Year"
by the Royal Court Theatre in Denmark. David Andersen
Denmark is now where his whole heart is at, and
it is with a profound passion for architecture,
music and museums that he finds inspiration to
design couture and ready-to-wear for both genders,
though his men's collection is most prominent
on the commercial scene. David Andersen Denmark
isn't afraid to push the boundaries to the limit
by including skin and fur, or experimenting with
different shapes and textures, which invites in
a very daring audience. For his outspoken and
androgynous clothing he was recognized with "The
Golden Fur Pin" in 2007. Kopenhagen Fur weren't
the only ones who honored DAVID ANDERSEN's audacity.
Royal Copenhagen presented him with an award for
"A Different Fashion Experience" in
2008. As a well established brand, DAVID ANDERSEN,
has a talked about, known about designer, who
strives towards perfection; And when given "The
Government Art Award" 2010, more nominations
quickly followed such as "Design Talent of
the Year" at Dansk Fashion Awards 2010 and
2011."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep12 Elsa Adams, Maurizio Galante &
Isabell de Hillerin
Elsa
Adams - Copenhagen
"ELSA
ADAMS All laces are haute couture and comes from
the world’s most exclusive laces manufacture from
France, they are made in the original old traditional
way. This exclusive French lace manufacturer handcrafts
nearly all their laces, which brings the highest
quality that you find on the earth. They have
been delivering to all leading fashion houses
around the globe and made the laces to the royal
wedding Prince William and Kate Middleton and
many other celebrity events. Elsa Adams always
chooses and design laces in her own design or
a special color and mostly with 3D effects and
sometimes more than two color threads, which make
the lace unique and get this Elsa Adams coolness.
Maurizio
Galante - Paris
Maurizio
Galante Haute Couture celebrates a body of work
that covers over 25 years of the Paris-based Italian
/ French couturier's career. Galante is one of
the world's most respected haute couture fashion
designers, having won numerous awards, and in
2009 was appointed Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts
et desLettres by the French Minister of Culture.
The house of Maurizio Galante Haute Couture joined
the French ‘Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture’
as a Membre Invitée in 1992, and was made a permanent
member of this very closed circle in 2008. Maurizio
Galante's distinctive language is particularly
valuable in today’s Haute Couture. Galante, who
studied architecture prior to opting for fashion,
perceives his garments as objects, with a flexible,
fluid structure. Maurizio Galante’s Haute Couture
creations are realized with profound respect for
traditional craftsmanship, poetically combining
an architect's in-depth knowledge with the fine
workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier,
and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.
They are worn by a select clientele of influential
women all over the world, and are included in
the collections of the most important international
museums.
Isabell
de Hillerin - Berlin
The
German designer Isabell de Hillerin founded her
own fashion label in Berlin 2009, after finishing
her fashion design studies at the ‘Felicidad Duce’
in Barcelona. Her design ideas sensitively reflect
a personal interpretation of contemporary and
sustainable fashion. The combination of clean,
innovative cuts and folkloric handmade Romanian
and Moldovan materials transmit a position between
new design and old tradition. ‘isabell de hillerin’
stands for elegance, structured cuts and details
which remind of an old tradition. In recent years
the ancient fabrics industry in Romania and Moldovan
has been driven to near extinction. To strengthen
this traditional artisan industry, her label works
with local manufacturers to support the production
of handmade materials. Her aim is to push these
highly skilled craftsmen by publicising and utilising
their cultural skills in a way that hasn´t been
done before."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 Ep13 Christophe Josse, Burce Bekrek &
Peter Jensen
Christophe
Josse - Paris
"Christophe
Josse joins in January 2011, the very closed circle
of the Haute Couture which confers him the prestigious
title of "grand couturier". After studies
in history of art and collaborating over than
fifteen years with famous designer houses, in
July 2005 Christophe Josse presents his first
collection under his own name. At the end of 2008,
he opens his Haute Couture House at 231 rue Saint-Honoré
in Paris. Christophe Josse only designs ethereal
collections with an apparent lightness based on
an ultra controlled technique. This is made possible
by the unique experience of an Haute Couture atelier
capable of creating outstanding magic. Romantic,
sensual and delicate silhouettes, deliberately
anchored in modernity.
BURCE
BEKREK - Istanbul
Burce
Bekrek is one of the most aspiring upcoming fashion
designers of Turkey. Within two years she developed
an unique signature style for modern designs with
a focus on clean cuts, excellent fit and high
quality fabrics. Serenity and minimalism are the
core foundation throughout Burce Bekrek´s design
process. She is focussing on the simple pattern
of a garment and is refining it with her remarkable
details. By designing unique, functional, tailored
and high quality pieces of clothing she aims to
create an outstanding yet simplistic look. The
wearability of her outfits are an important purpose
for Burce Bekrek as she wants her collections
to accommodate the lifestyle of the women wearing
them.
Peter
Jensen- London
Peter
Jensen Since the onset of the Noughties, Peter
Jensen has carved out a reputation as a designer
whose impeccably produced creations thread together
mischievous humour and a celebratory approach
to individuality, with an impressive attention
to detail and lightness of touch. This approach
is clearly apparent within his designs for both
men and women - the results of which always deftly
remain on the wearable side of unconventional.
Based in London, though originally hailing from
Logstor, Denmark, Jensen initially launched his
eponymous menswear line immediately after graduating
- with a Distinction - from Central Saint Martins,
in 1999. This, along with his prior training in
the various disciplines of graphic design, embroidery
and tailoring, has consistently enabled his work
to be as technically adept as it is inspired and
original."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep14 Aminaka Wilmont, Freya Dalsjo &
Marcel Ostertag
"Maki
Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont. - London
BACKGROUND:
Maki is from Japan and Sweden. Marcus hails from
Denmark. The designers met while working for Robert
Cary-Williams. They studied at Royal College of
Art, Central Saint Martins and University of Boras.
SIGNATURES: “Sensual, flowing and innovative silhouettes
embracing soft, voluminous draping of effortless
complexity and avant-garde tailoring.” IDEAL CLIENT:
“Self-confident, serene and sensual, with an appreciation
of creativity and pure unconventional beauty.”
TRADEMARK PIECES: “Experimental drape dresses
in abstract prints and asymmetric distressed leather
jackets.”
Freya
Dalsjö - Antwerp
Emerging
from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Freya
Dalsjö showcased her first collection as a live
installation fusing fashion and art at this year's
Copenhagen Fashion Week. The young designer Freya
Dalsjö had the privilege of opening Copenhagen
Fashion Week SS13 - a debut collection that revealed
the future of danish design. The show took place
in Carlsberg's old brewery where the industrial
buildings made a fitful setting for Freya Dalsjö's
powerful show. Freya Dalsjö's work centers around
the tension between opposites; internal and external
conflicts. A chaos that emphazises a confident
and sexy vitality. "The Freya Dalsjö woman
is not even doubting. She is not innocent nor
naive. She is not pretending nor looking for validation.
She is confident, impressive, outstanding and
seductive. She doesn't uniform herself with clothes,
she frames herself in it." The show was envisaged
as a live installation. A movie showing kaleidoscopic
figures in feather and latex introduced the live
show, where visuals of a dark marching fashion
army accompanied with a mixture of pompous and
uncompromising soundscapes, creating a powerful
atmosphere around the women and the garments.
The shadows are haunting the light. Sharp white
shapes are challenging the dark. Delicate feathers
and silk are combined with raw latex and python
skin. What is exclusive and fragile meets the
perverted and animalistic, in a battle between
good and evil.
MARCEL
OSTERTAG - Munich
Marcel
Ostertag is maker and brand in one. In his studio,
surrounded by the pulsating streets of the Gärtnerplatz
quarter, he creates his collections which are
set between tradition and modernity. During his
studies at the renowned Central St. Martins College
in London, Marcel Ostertag could extend his feeling
and know how for fashion and is constantly developing
thanks to numerous international shows and collaborations.
Catwalk shows in Shanghai, Beijing, London and
Vienna are in the meantime routine, as is the
seasonal show in the course of the Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Week Berlin. He draws his inspiration
from nature, encounters with interesting people,
travels and foreign countries – but never forgets
his roots. He has worked on projects with Burberry,
Paul Smith and Dunhill, furthermore great brands
such as Miele and Volkswagen are amongst his customers.
He finally devoted himself to the glamour of fashion
with the launch of his own label Marcel Ostertag
in 2006. His fashion is exclusively produced in
Germany, as his credo is ‘quality needs control’.
That is what his style demands and you can feel
it in every fantastic piece by Marcel Ostertag."
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep15 Victoria Sarri, Dietrich Emter &
Claudia Rosa Lukas
Victoria
Sarri - Athens
"Victoria
S. by F. Erotokritos "Fashion Erotokritos",
the already established fashion textile store
and the most favorite artistic frequented place,
loyal to its values and to its new ideas, it innovates,
once more, and substantially supports new talented
fashion designers in their first big step. By
initiating this valuable effort, it collaborates
with the up-and-coming designer, Victoria Sarri
and her sensational collection. Providing her
with the opportunity to participate, with our
textiles and with the utmost attention of our
experienced and professional team, Victoria Sarri
will outdo herself by presenting her best work.
DIETRICH
EMTER - Berlin
After
studying fashion design at Lette Verein Berlin,
Dietrich Emter went to Paris to develop his practical
skills, and to learn from the high end brands
of the French fashion industry. At Balenciaga,
Emter worked alongside Nicolas Ghesquières, who
influenced him significantly in his style. Later
he worked at Isabel Marant, and as a junior designer
for Chloé. In March 2011, he launched his own
fashion label in Berlin, DIETRICH EMTER, and in
September presented his first collection to international
buyers at the famous Lakic showroom, Paris.
Claudia
Rosa Lukas - Vienna
Lukas
studied under the legendary Viennese designer
Helmut Lang when he taught at Vienna's University
of Applied Arts and he set her on the minimalist
path. "He made his students do a lot of research
to discover the essentials of a garment,"
says Lukas. "He made us think about every
seam you need and don't need and how to construct
modern basics." Lukas says she has been interested
in fashion for as far back as she can remember.
I was into faces and hands first and finally the
covered female body. I began by redesigning old
clothes." She doesn't like themes or collections
with names. "Why bother with unwanted associations?"
She asks, describing her style as "a quiet
revolution in this fuss-driven fashion world.""
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S04 ep16 Kaviar Nassos SponDiogo
"KAVIAR
GAUCHE -Berlin
They
create must-have bags and conceptual, feminine,
avant-garde clothes. The Berlin-based label was
launched with a guerrilla fashion show in front
of the Paris department store Colette in 2003.
Eversince, KAVIAR GAUCHE has held a successful
presence at an international level. Following
a successful debut of their Spring/Summer 2009
collection at London Fashion Week in September
2008, KAVIAR GAUCHE kicked off a spectacular fashion
show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin
for Autumn/Winter 2009. As early as September
2006, KAVIAR GAUCHE received the London “ON OFF
Visionary Award” and its SS07 collection was presented
in a runway show at the prestigious London Fashion
Week. Immediately following this success, KAVIAR
GAUCHE was nominated for the “Swiss Textiles Award”.
The KAVIAR GAUCHE SS08 collection won the “New
Generation Fashion Award” at the Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Week Berlin. The Label is continually
represented in press and at the beginning of 2008,
KAVIAR GAUCHE was elected under “the 10 most important
German Fashion Designers”.
Nassos
Ntotsikas - Athens
Graduate
of Academia di Roma, specialized in knitwear and
having worked along with well-established names
of the fashion world in Greece and abroad. Nassos
Ntotsikas having won the Best Trendsetter Award
by Mtv last season presents his 4th collection:
haute couture combined with knitwear expertise.
Knitted garments of forms stylized using the latest
equipment and of the finest materials -sometimes
left in their natural state, sometimes treated-
multiple-activity clothes that can be transformed
to suit the mood and style of every woman.
SPON
DIOGO - Berlin/Copenhagen
Mia
Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo have
worked together as a design team for more than
four years and have designed for various companies
on projects such as male / female Prêt-à-Porter
collections, jewellery, bags, identity programmes
etc. Mia Lisa Spon is a trained tailor and has
worked for Danish and Swedish fashion and apparel
companies. Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo is self-taught
in the field of design. Rui ran an art gallery
and boutique in Reykjavík and has worked as an
arts editor on Danish fashion magazine III and
with industrial and graphic design. They both
live and work in Copenhagen. In the spring of
2008 they founded their label, SPON DIOGO, presenting
their collections in Copenhagen and Paris every
season. Mid October 2008, their first 10-piece
collection, exclusively for Danish boutique PARISTEXAS,
was launched. This capsule collection was a pre-collection
for their Spring/Summer 2009 collection entitled
"FACETS". Their Autumn/Winter 2009 collection
is a full collection comprising of 35 pieces.
Their approach to designing is architectonic,
graphic and strongly based on their love for materials
and tailoring. The Spon Diogo woman is urban,
very social and strong."
|
|
FASHION FOLK Series 3 [13x26min episodes]
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK S03 ep1 Fatima Lopez,[Pars], Kinder Aguggini
[UK], Muelhbauer [Vienna]
Fatima
Lopez [Lisbon]
Fátima
comes from the Portuguese island of Madeira. She
was born and grew up in its capital city, Funchal.
Since an early age she showed an interest in fashion
and during her adolescence, unhappy with what
the shops had to offer in terms of clothing, started
to design her own clothes. Being fluent in English,
French and German, she worked as a tourist guide
for a local travel agency. In 1990 Fátima moved
to Lisbon, where she believed she could better
pursue a career as a fashion designer. With a
friend she opened a boutique named "Versos", which
sold mainly clothes from international designers.
In 1992 the boutique changed its name to "Fátima
Lopes" and in that year the Fátima Lopes brand
was born. In September of the same year, she participated
in a fashion show made in an old convent in Lisbon
(Convento do Beato), where her work was widely
applauded. In 1994 she exhibited her collection
in Paris at the "Salon du Prêt-à-Porter Feminin".
Two years later she opened her first international
store in Paris, located in the famous rue de Grenelle.
At the same time she began to diversify her collections
by creating bags and shoes for both men and women.
Kinder
Aguggini [London]
Kinder
Aggugini CollectionKinder is an intriguing character.
An Italian Ex-punk, he studied at St. Martins
during the 1980?s and worked on Savile row before
movingto John Galliano (where he applied for the
job dressed as a policeman). He also worked at
Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Costume
National and as a head designer for Versace following
the death of Gianni. Its a pretty fine fashion
heritage by anyone’s standards
Klaus
Muelbaer [Vienna]
In
1903 Julianna Mühlbauer laid the foundation stone
of the now over 100 year old family business.
She opened a small millinery with shop attached
in the Viennese suburb of Floridsdorf with her
husband Robert.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep2 John Rocha, Gaspard Yurkievich &
Christine Berger
John
Rocha [UK]
[London]
Born in Hong Kong and of Chinese and Portuguese
descent, John Rocha moved to London in the 1970's
to study fashion. He eventually moved to Dublin
in the 1980's where he has lived for the past
twenty-two years, working closely with his wife
and business partner Odette. The opening of the
Morrison Hotel in 1999 confirmed John Rocha's
successful involvement in the first of a number
of architectural projects. Working with interior
design and structural architecture, office and
residential projects have been completed in Dublin
and Liverpool. In July 2002, John Rocha's contemporary
range of organically inspired jewellery was launched.
Gaspard
Yurkievich [Paris]
[Paris]
Known for his wild and outlandish catwalk presentations,
French designer Gaspard Yurkievich is also fast
becoming the designer of choice by fashion forward
young men and women who like wearing street and
urban clothes with a Parisian touch. A native
of Paris, (born May 16, 1972), Gaspard Yurkievich
studied at the Studio Bercot from 1991-93; wherein
after graduation, he trained under Jean Paul Gaultier,
Thierry Mugler and Jean Collona. To hone his skills,
the Paris native entered several competitions,
one of them the 12th International Festival of
Art and Fashion at the Hyeres (May 1997), wherein
he won for the women’s collection as well as the
3 Suisse Prize. The next year (1998), Yurkievich
won the ANDAM competition.
Christine
Berger [Vienna]
[Vienna]
Christina Berger is the very tongue-in-cheek representative
of Vienna’s up-and-coming young generation of
fashion designers. Her clothes are as extravagant
as her collection titles are daring. With some
amusement we remember the title she chose for
fall 2009, which is YOU DID A GREAT BLOW JOB,
BRIGITTE! YOURS FREDL M - allegedly referring
to Brigitte Nielsen and Freddy Mercury as outstanding
inspirations.Well well well… Now Christina has
come up with something new, something exciting,
something never heard of before (uhm…). Starting
on September 17 and until Sept. 25 she will tour
the fashion capitals of Europe with her spring
2010 collection, the overall motto is White Vest
in Wild West. If that’s not something, then we
don’t know.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep3 Felipe Oliviera Baptista, Samantha
Sotos & Jasper Conran
Felipe
Oliveira Baptista
[Paris]
Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista has
been in the fashion industry since 1997, working
for such names as Max Mara, Cerruti and Thimister
as well as doing free lance design, photography
and graphic design. He showed his first collection
under his own name in 2002 and was quickly recognized,
becoming the co-winner of the “Grand Prix” at
the “Festival de Hyeres”, since then he has won
several other awards as well as been invited to
join the official Calender of Paris Haute Couture,
fathered by Hermes and Gaultier. He has now launched
his 2008 Spring collection, a mix of couture and
ready-to-wear.
Jasper
Conran [London]
The
son of design guru Sir Terence Conran, Jasper
Conran was literally born (1960) to the world
of design. At 19, when he produced his first collection,
it did not really surprise anyone. Of course,
at that time, he already has a degree in Design
from Parsons School of Design (1977) and had already
worked at Fiorucci (New York) and Wallis (London).
The British Design Council has called him a "classicist"
and had awarded him the much coveted British Designer
of the Year Award in 1986. He also designs contemporary
crystals for Stuart. For his work at Stuart Crystals,
Jasper Conran quoted: "When Stuart invited me
to collaborate on a collection of contemporary
crystal, I approached it in the same way I approach
designing clothes - use the best materials and
keep it simple."
Samantha
Sotos [Athens]
Sydney
born, Athens based "Euralian" designer.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep4 Manish Arora [UK] Eun Jeong [Korea]
Simeoni [Athens]
Manish
Arora [India]
Manish
Arora is regarded by many as "the John Galliano
of India".[6] He is known for a rich palette of
psychedelic colours and kitsch motifs in garments
that combine traditional Indian crafts like embroidery,
appliqué and beading with Western silhouettes
Eun
Jong [London]
Career
highlights: “There are many: winning Fashion
Fringe 2008; working as a part-time tutor on the
Fashion Design course at Kent Institute; developing
my own label ‘1st element by hong eun jeong’;
designing uniforms for Hyundai Department store
staff in Korea; illustrating for an international
textile magazine. I designed three collections
in Seoul, Korea and became a manager of the overseas
business department at D.S Textile in UK at the
same time as running my own label in the UK. Design
background: Eun graduated from Kent Institute
with a BA and then completed her MA at Central
Saint Martins. She was manager of the Overseas
Business Department at D.S. Textile in the UK.
Simeonis
[Athens]
Konstantinos
Simeoni was born in 1969 in Thessaloniki Greece.
He graduated from high school in 1986 and then
went to the "VELUDAKIS FASHION SCHOOL" in Athens,
where he studied fashion design. After his graduation
from there and his Master's course at "ISTITUTO
DI MODA BURGO" in Milan, he returned to Thessaloniki.
He created his fashion house in 1996 and six months
later his Boutique. Since then, he creates his
collections every season, which he presents in
his personal fashion shows in Thessaloniki and
Athens.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep5 Peechoo Krejbourg[Paris] Jessie LeCompte
[Brussels] Osman[UK]
Peachoo
Krejbourg[India-Denmark]
Peachoo
Datwani and Roy Krejberg, the Indian-Dutch duo
behind Peachoo + Krejberg, belong to the Belgian
wing of Paris fashion. They specialize in monochomes,
deconstruction, odd volumes, and, when glitz does
enter the picture, an organic sort of bling. With
its askew jackets, floppy asymmetric skirts, and
draped layers, fashion followers saw shades of
Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring 2009 collection in
the show they put on at the Musée de l’Homme yesterday,
their fourth at Paris fashion week.
Osman [London]
Osman
Yousefzada, has created a distinctive signature
for his label. Osman Yousefzada studied Fashion
Design at Central St Martins then launched his
own label in September 2005. Exclusively available
at Browns is Osman Yousefzada first pre-collection
of his best-selling styles. The designs are tailored,
architectural and will flatter all women. Celebrity
fans include Thandie Newton, Mary Kate-Olsen,
Charlize Theron, Kerry Washington, Jemima Khan,
Lily Cole, Kate Moss, Alice Delall and Alek Wek
Jessie
LeComte [Brussels]
After
finishing her studies at the Antwerp Fashion Academy
in 1996, Jessie Lecomte worked as an intern and
freelance designer for different labels. As a
director of design, Jessie Lecomte is known for
her technical expertise and her creative vision.
With her own label, Jessie Lecomte expresses a
personal and purely creative view on today’s
fashion. Her collections translate the designers’
affinity for intelligent details, noble fabrics
and modern cut. The collections are based on the
exercise of shapes, structures and techniques
rather than on thematic concepts.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep6 Harry Halim[Singapore-Paris] Betty
Jackson[UK] J'ATON[Melbourne]
Harry
Halim [Paris]
Harry
Halim is an Indonesian born designer based in
Paris who has been designing since 2005. His designs
are delicately crafted and immaculately tailored.
Harry Halim's first collection was launched in
2006. Halim won the Asian Young Designer Contest
that same year. In 2008 Halim relocated to Paris.
Halim's designs have a distinctive modern-romanticism
and darkly sensual aesthetic, which is always
imaginative, deeply provocative and very glamorous.
Betty
Jackson [London]
Born
in Lancashire (1949), Betty Jackson started her
fashion career as a fashion illustrator during
her senior year (1971) at the Birmingham College
of Art. She did that for three years, and then
she moved on to get her "hands-on experience"
as a design assistant. In 1981, ten years after
graduation, she struck on her own, and founded
Betty Jackson Ltd. Described by the British Fashion
Council as a "directional classicist" Betty Jackson's
style of dressing is based on comfort and relaxed
style. Leaning heavily on unstructured separates
and daywear, Betty Jackson's creations are usually
soft and feminine. She usually gets her inspirations
from colors and patterns, imagining it being worn
by a woman, and then designs around that palette.
Easy, contemporary and liberated clothes are the
adjectives that describe Betty Jackson's work.
"My work is understated and easy. I do not like
formal dressing and I always try to achieve a
relaxed and casual look. The mix of texture and
pattern is very important and we work with many
textile designers to have specialness and exclusivity
on fabrics. Unexpected fabrics are often used
in simple, classic shapes."
J'Aton [Melbourne]
Brides
often confide in Jacob Luppino and Anthony Pittorino,
the designers behind the couture label J'Aton:
they tell them that they never expected to get
so many compliments from men. "We're coming from
a different angle being male designers," explains
Luppino. "We dress women the way men want to see
women dressed." These two hard-working designers
launched their label in 1995 and since then have
won many awards for their contemporary couture.
Luppino recalls the early days: "We started this
business with no financial support or backing
and when we sold a dress we'd buy what we needed:
sewing machines, equipment and so on." Both Pittorino
and Luppino come from Italian families and similar
backgrounds. Their excellent ability to understand
each other has also translated into perfect business
sense over the years. Their first Melbourne store
opened in Ascot Vale, their local area, and then
moved to Prahran five years later where they aimed
to broaden their client base. And they've certainly
done so. Their celebrity clients are the who's
who of Australian television and music: Delta
Goodrem, Tara Moss, Ada Nicodemou, Sigrid Thornton,
Megan Gale and Holly Brisley have all worn their
gowns. Their design process is part of what attracts
Australia's elite, a process that ensures that
every bride feels like a star when her dress designed
by J'Aton.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep7 Carine Gilson[Paris-Brussels] Eley-Kishimoto[UK],
Delight[Athens]
Carine
Gilson [Brussels]
A
Fine Arts graduate from the Brussels academy and
the Antwerp Fashion Academy, Carine Gilson was
only 23 when she bought a small sewing workshop.
In 1994 she created the “Carine Gilson Lingerie
Couture” line. The most precious and noble
materials are used in her collections. Carine
Gilson is one of the rare designers to imagine
lingerie as more than a simple accessory. Each
season, she is inspired by a different artistic
theme (Russian ballet, Klimt, Art Nouveau, Art
Deco…). Production takes place in her own
workshop in Brussels where, for more than 15 years,
she has perfected her skills and the quality of
her work. Handmade design in a “haute couture”
spirit. The use of subtle colours gives the collection
a timeless quality while remaining determinedly
modern. Very quickly, she seduced the most prestigious
shops and departments stores, from New York to
Tokyo, via Rome and London. In 2006, Carine Gilson
opened her first shop in Paris, and in the same
spirit, in 2007 in London.
Eley
Kishimoto [London]
Eley
Kishimoto are surface Decorators. Fundamentally
striving to make the world a prettier place, Eley
Kishimoto create work that is clear in intention,
executed simply, and with creative flair; they
do not succumb to trends and fads. Instead the
vision is clear and in the forefront, fashion
is used as a platform to communicate with a wide
and varied audience. From a partnership forged
in the early 90's, Eley Kishimoto quickly gained
a reputation for incisive and intelligent print
design with their work being displayed on the
catwalks of the world through work with Louis
Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber
Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name but a few. In the
mid 90's the partnership moved into the fashion
world with the launch of their first womenswear
collection; this proved to be such a success that
the company has produced collections ever since.
The principle activity is womenswear fashion,
but Eley Kishimoto has already worked with partners
to offer footwear, hosiery, sunglasses, leather
belts, and various 'flash' collaborations, under
the umbrella of womenswear mainline.
Delight [Athens]
Athens-based
fashion designers Daphne Iliaki and Evi Retziou
created their first Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collection
after graduating from fashion school in June 2008.
They have Marketing and Accounting educational
background respectively. They presented their
projects, individually, for the Create Europe:
Fashion Academy Award at the Hellenic Fashion
Week in March 2008. They both attended a workshop
for Fashion and Architecture: Food-wear for the
Hellenic Fashion Week in September 2008 and presented
their work on the last day of shows. Their collaboration
began as soon as they realized they had similar
views on fashion, such as conceptual projects,
geometric forms, the search for unusual materials
and a humorous look on fashion. DELIGHT presented
their first collection Autumn/Winter 2009/2010
at the Athens Fashion Week in March 2009. Since
then they have been regularly presenting their
collections every season in Athens Fashion Week.
On April 2010 DELIGHT presented their F/W 2010
Collection at Cluj Napoca Fashion Week in Rumania.
DELIGHT designed the staff uniforms for the Onassis
Cultural Centre Athens since their design proposal
was accepted. DELIGHT won the first prize of the
Most Commercial Design Collection for Spring 2011
at the 1st International Designer Awards held
by the IAF (International Apparel Federation)
that took place in Hong Kong(5-7 October 2010).
Their clothes can be found in Athens, Moscow and
Berlin.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep8 Ashish [UK] MED[Athens] Amya [Madrid]
Ashish [London]
Ashish
Gupta is about colour and fun with a fifties twist.
Baggy halter-top pleated mini dresses were styled
with spandex tights as Ashish’s first looks
of the collection. These mini dresses were made
in a simple cotton fabric, which had a sparkle
finish within the fabric. This same fabric is
later carried over into his punk off the shoulder
oversized jumpers. Small cardigans and tweed coats
were layered on top of printed dresses and shirts.
Many traditional items such as trouser suits were
more relax with a loose fit. Track suits in burgundy
and midnight blue were loose fit as well. These
track suits are comfortable chic yet stylish with
a cute pump. A signature motif this season for
Gupta is his multi-rainbow colour sweaters and
dresses. This motif is full of small threads intricately
splashed all over which are reminiscent of jumpers
from children of the 80’s. Stretching back
to the 50’s, Gupta designed poodle skirts
in funky colours with layers of tulle slips underneath
to give a dynamic flare. These key skirts were
simply styled with tanks and sweat shirts with
political slogans such as: “Children are
Special. “ Gupta is a budding new talent
who is catching the true spirit of London style.
MED [Athens]
Amya
Arznaga [Madrid]
Amaya
Arzuaga (born in Lerma (Burgos), in 1970), is
a Spanish designer. She studied in the UPM and
in 1992 she finished Fashion Design and joined
her parents' enterprise, Elipse. In 1994, she
created her own firm. She sells and shows her
collections regularly in international fashion
fairs like Atmosphère (Paris), Fashion Cotterie
(New York), Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
(Milan), Pasarela Cibeles (Madrid), Passarel·la
Gaudí (Barcelona), and London Fashion Week(London).
Amaya Arzuaga has more than 200 boutiques in Spain.
|
|
 |
SERIES
3: Fashion Folk S03 ep9 Lakis Gavalas[Athens]
Dejana Kabiljo [Vienna] Emilio DelaMoreno[UK]
Lakis
Gavalas [Athens]
Fashion
is not Lakis Gavalas’ first choice in life. He
was born in 1957 and comes from a wealthy family
from Piraeus. His father was the owner of a marble
processing factory and the little Apostolakis
(this is his real name) is a graduate of the Greek-French
School. The designer told for Athens Magazine
that his first job was at age of 17 at a furrier
who made school bags in the area of Monastiraki.
There, he demonstrated his talent in fashion for
the first time as he managed to make a few state-of-the-art
bags for that time. According to him, these bags
were very successful. He went to Italy as a dancer
at the age 20 and started working in the Italian
television RAI. He discovered the world of fashion
there and became fashion shows choreographer first.
His more creative collaboration with Italian designers
began when he was 27 and at the age of 29 he returned
to Greece with the idea to open a shop on the
island of Rhodes, which at that time was still
a free zone and all luxury goods would be imported
duty free. Later, his commercial network started
growing, and then he created his own brand of
apparels .LAK, although he does not like to be
called a designer.
Dejana
Kabiljo [Vienna]
The
multidisciplinary artist and designer Dejana Kabiljo
currently lives and works in Vienna. After graduating
in architecture at the University of Belgrade
and receiving a Master Degree in design from the
Domus Academy in Milan, she took up the post of
Art Director at the Vienna Museum of Technology.
Two years later, she started her own professional
practice for design and architecture and was lecturer
at the University of applied Arts in Vienna. She
launched her own design brand Kabiljo Inc and
had the chance to showcase her first collection
in exhibitions at the MAK in Vienna. Kabiljo had
personal exhibitions all over the world, amongst
others in Tokyo, London, Milan, Vienna, of which,
the humorous PRETTYPRETTY collection, which consists
of hairy bar stools, poufs and chairs, was perticularly
successful.
Emilio
de la Morena [London]
Emilio
De La Morena is a fashion designer, born in Spain
but based in Britain since 1993. After graduating
with a first class honours degree in International
Business from Edinburgh, De La Morena joined one
of the world’s leading brand consultancies
based in London. He began studying Fashion Design
at Central Saint Martins in 2002, going on to
work for Rafael Lopez and Jonathan Saunders. De
La Morena's work is inspired by his Spanish heritage,
often featuring complex use of obscure craft techniques.
He reached the semifinals of the Fashion Fringe
Award with his debut womenswear collection in
2005. In 2008, the designer was the recipient
of New Generation sponsorship for the first time.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep10 Guy Laroche[Paris] And-i [Vienna]
Kyriakidis [Athens]
Guy
Laroche[Paris]
Marcel
Marongiu sees fashion design as a genuine means
of communication. He wants people to be able to
live out their fantasies by wearing his clothes
and to discover what he terms "la vie plus belle,"
the beautiful life. Marongiu designs clothes that
are classically elegant yet also up to date, sexy,
and carefree. His style is always strong and pronounced,
the cut always clean and streamlined, emphasizing
the contours and shape of the human body. Stretch
fabrics and natural classic fabrics, often with
a small Lycra percentage, help him achieve these
silhouettes.
Andreas
Eberharter [Vienna]
andreas
eberharter’s approach to design is that of a sculptor
who seeks free access to expressions of artistic
form. he uses new and unusual materials such as
aluminum and acrylic glass, but also swarovski
crystals and pearls or cubic zirconia.
Victoria
Kyriakidis [Athens]
Victoria
Kyriakides created her first collection in 1988.
SInce then she boasts 34 personal collections
and 16 years of creative presence in the industry.
The Victoria Kyriakides label was founded in 1995.
Her pret-a-porter deluxe collections are featured
in boutiques all around Greece, Cyprus and London.
In addition, she designs collections for some
of the best known labels in the Greek industry
as well as for advertising campaigns of major
international companies. Since 2000 she has focused
mainly on haute-couture. "I design and get my
inspiration from nature, life and the beauty every
woman radiates", says Victoria. Each one of her
designs are unique and different. Based on each
womans' personality and femininity she creates
small works of art.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep11 Marloes Bhomer[Amsterdam] Lukas[Athens]
Krug8 [Belgrade]
Marloes
Bhomer[London-Amsterdam]
Marloes
Ten Bhömer a London based Dutch product designer
graduated from the London College of Fashion &
The Royal College of Art. She is considered one
of the most promising designers of her generation
and has exhibited worldwide. Most recently she
was nominated for the Grand Brit Insurance Design
Award held at the Design Museum. Ten Bhömer’s
shoes are both provocative and otherworldly; Her
works question our perception of functionality,
fusing art and technology to create an origami
like production, working with materials ranging
from wood to polyurethane resin, tarpaulin, steel
and fiberglass. Marloes ten Bhömer is a Hussein
Chalayan for the extremities.’ Wallpaper
Magazine
Lukas [Athens]
Lukas
studied Mechanical Engineering at the National
Technical University of Athens but his passion
for fashion design led him to AKMI IVT where he
attended the Fashion Design and Styling courses.
Following his dreams, he goes to Paris and takes
some seminar courses in Fashion Design and Pattern
Drafting as well as in accessories, bags and shoes
Design at ESMOD (Paris). From that moment on,
he keeps impressing us with his creations. To
hone his skills, LUKAS entered the “Heering Accessorize
2009? competition wherein among the 12000 contestants,
he won the first price and his participation in
Copenhagen Fashion Week. His amazing personality
and talent lead LUKAS to generate more fame and
compliments on himself and his brand and it’s
not surprising that Greek and international magazines
(e.g. Glamour, Mirror, Life&Style, BHMAdonna,
Athens Magazine, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, VOGUE
UK, ELLE UK) shed their lights on his creations.
He builds up connections with Greek artists (Despina
Vandi, Tamta and Antigone Psihrami) and media
shows like Greek Next Top Model, Greek Idol while
his haute couture red geisha gown in X-Factor
back in 2009 attracted all fashionista’s eyes.
His creations now can be found in boutiques in
major cities around the world (Copenhagen, Los
Angeles and New York).
Krug
8 [Serbia]
Belgrade based fashion designer
consortium including a Milliner, Architect and
Leathergoods Designer.
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep12 Delvaux [Brussels] Meadham Kirchoff
[UK] Alexandrakis [Athens]
Delvaux [Brussels]
Founded
in 1829 in Brussels, Delvaux is the oldest fine
leather luxury goods company in the world. Delvaux
has remained a family-owned company, precisely
because it wants to protect such values as ethics,
quality, exclusivity and elegance, and to be able
to deliver an authentic luxury experience to its
customers, based on their expectations. Delvaux
is first and foremost about the product: handmade
following the oldest craft traditions, using the
finest leathers, created by renowned designers
in limited editions to guarantee exclusivity.
Products made with taste and perfection, to last
generations.
Meadham
Kirschoff [London]
English
Edward Meadham and French born Benjamin Kirchhoff
graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2002.
The pair launched their womenswear collection,
Meadham Kirchhoff, as part of Fashion East in
February 2006. The pair have since won further
shows with the scheme and have more recently been
awarded catwalk sponsorship as part of NEWGEN
scheme for the last 2 seasons. Defining their
aesthetic incorporates a classic take on both
bourgeois garments and hard street cultures. The
continuous ongoing struggle between dark and light
develops the label’s signature use of toughness
against fluidity. The woman for whom they design
is uncompromising, nonchalantly elegant, intelligent
and melancholic.
Katerina
Alexandraki [Athens]
Katerina
Alexandraki is a contemporary designer, based
in Athens, who likes to mix fashion with art and
social issues. Her inspiration is derived from
themes like geometry, the wheel of the bicycle,
the game of chess, the supermarket as well as
from Expressionistic and Surrealistic art forms.
Her basic mission is to observe street life and
the progression of music in the big cities around
the world. Showcasing in 5th Floor, Bread and
Butter, Premium, Ideal Showroom and Project Gallery
in Berlin, she developed a strong bond with this
historic city- often a source of inspiration..!
|
|
 |
Fashion
Folk S03 ep13 Kenzo [Paris] Bettina Liano [Melbourne]
NikosTakis [Athens]
KENZO
Kenzo's success started in 1970: during this year he presented
his first show at the Vivienne Gallery; his first
store, "Jungle Jap" was opened; and one of his
models appeared in the cover of ELLE.[1] His collection
was presented in New York and Tokyo in 1971. The
next year, he won the Fashion Editor Club of Japan's
prize. Kenzo proved his sense of dramatic appearance
when, in 1978 and 1979, he held his shows in a
circus tent, finishing with horsewomen performers
wearing transparent uniforms and he himself riding
an elephant.
BETTINA
LIANO
Bettina Liano established her label in the 80's with a collection
of simply draped jersey dresses, having never
taken a sewing lesson in her life. The designer
has worked across fashion genres, from denim,
street, and even to swimwear. In addition to the
signature label that carries the designers name,
there is also a diffusion streetwear label named
"BLYA" available. Much of her fame in international
fashion scene comes from making sleek, fitted
pants that spawned the idea to create a sexy,
fitted jeans for the modern woman that fit like
a second skin.
NIKOS TAKIS
Nikos-Takis Haute Couture has been successfully in the fashion
industry for the past 48 years. The designer team
behind the firm has a strong sense of creativity
and adjusts constantly the collections to comply
today's style. The designers' continuous search
for new and creative ways has driven them towards
the operation of Nikos-Takis Fashion Hotel in
the island of Rhodes, a Professional Models Training
School and a Models' Agency in Peristeri - Athens,
a Baby Christening Collection and a total Men's
Collection. Shortly, the designers will sign collections
in the area of footwear, sportswear, home furniture,
white linen and cosmetics.
|
|
FASHION FOLK Series 2 [15x26min episodes]
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep1
NICOLE
FARHI
She
is so well established as a designer who designs
sympathetically for like-minded women that she
needs little explanation. Born in Nice and trained
in fashion design, she moved to London in the
early 1970's to work with Stephen Marks on the
French Connection brand. She launched her own
label with Marks in 1982 and added a very successful
mens-wear collection in 1989. Two diffusion ranges
called Farhi now exist for both men and womens-wear.
Her flagship store in Bond Street, London houses
her collections, her home-wares, swimwear and
accessories plus her popular eponymous restaurant.
There is an almost identical store just off Madison
Avenue in New York. London. She has won many awards
for both her mens and womens-wear collections;
sculpts for a little more than relaxation and
is married to the playwright David Hare.
SOPHIE
ALBOU
Fashion
scholar Sophie Albou first got her stylish feet
wet at France's Fashion Institute. She followed
her graduation with an appointment at Azzedine
Alaia and then became a stylist for Le Garage.
In 1995 Albou launched her first menswear collection,
under the name "Paul and Joe" - a shout out to
her two young sons. Two years later the designer
released a womenswear line under the same moniker,
to critical acclaim.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep2
Ben
de Lisi
American
born de Lisi has built a reputation for designing
clothes with a subtle, flattering glamour with
collections that focus on eveningwear. From his
Elizabeth Street shop his flourishing business
in bridal dresses both couture and ready-to-wear
has been expanded. His BDL evening range for Debenhams
has been a mass-market success story while his
interiors for a large property company in the
UK have added another string to his bow. He also
designs a range of bathrooms for Abacus and has
plans to extend into other areas of lifestyle
products. De Lisi has just started filming the
third series of the television programme Project
Catwalk where his role of feisty mentor to competitors
has been impressive.
SWAROVSKI
- Nathalie Colin Roblique
Nathalie
Colin Roblique, Swarovski's Creative Director
said, "A study in asymmetry, a search for slightly
savage effects, and a desire for irregularity
that satisfies a need for authenticity and truth...
I wanted to create versatile and nomadic jewellery
that never stops moving. "Alive and sensual,"
she added, "these jewels can be rolled up or draped.
Their fringes echo human gestures and move with
the body. Some jewels appear to be abstract sculptures
- somewhere between jewellery and art objects
- but they are neither narrative nor realistic."
The slideshow gives you a glimpse of this fantastic
show. To see details of the collection, immerse
yourself into the Soul of Time and enjoy the ultimate
experience.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep3
AMANDA
WAKELEY
She
is a mirror of the women she aims to dress with
an innate understanding of the confident, glamorous
clothes they need. As her labels impressive A
list clientele proves - Scarlett Johansson, Mischa
Barton and Sarah Michelle Gellar are amongst her
many fans. She has won the British Fashion Award
for Glamour three times in the past. With new
backers she has moved her production to China
and India.
MASSARO
Raymond
Massaro has had his hands on the most beautiful
and famous feet in the world. And from the looks
of the new thigh-high velvet boots he's crafting
for Chanel, he's had his hands on a lot more than
feet. He will not comment, though, beyond a sly
smile and bemused twinkle in his eye. Discretion
is of course de rigueur for those who cater to
haute couture and the world's glitterati. Massaro
will, however, admit that during his 56-year career,
he has handcrafted shoes for the likes of Marlene
Dietrich, the Duchess of Windsor, Claudia Schiffer,
Morocco's King Hassan and fashion houses from
Vionnet to Alaïa. One can only imagine what other
famous feet have climbed the stairs to this dusty
second-floor atelier on the rue de la Paix.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep4
AKIRA
Akira
Isogawa is one of Australia’s most celebrated
designers. Born in Kyoto Japan, Akira moved to
Australia in 1986 where he studied fashion design
at the Sydney Institute of Technology, drawing
inspiration from contemporary Japanese design.
Since 1998, Akira has shown his collections in
Paris, where he presents Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter
collections to international buyers each year.
He has achieved international recognition for
his exquisite contemporary designs, which are
sought after in every major fashion capital throughout
the world. Akira continues to maintain a strong
presence in Sydney, where he has shown his Resort
collections during Australian Fashion Week since
1996. He has four stand alone boutiques in Australia
– in Woollahra and the Strand Arcade, Sydney;
the GPO in Melbourne; and, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane.
Since being named Designer of the Year and Womenswear
Designer of the Year at the Australian Fashion
Industry Awards in 1999 Akira has received a string
of awards. In 2007 Akira was awarded the inaugural
Australian Fashion Laureate Award for his contribution
to the Australian Fashion Industry. In 2006 Akira
received the Award for Fashion Excellence. And,
in 2005 he was honoured by Australia Post and
his image appeared on an ‘Australian Legend’ commemorative
postage stamp – to name just a few.
CAROLINE
CHARLES
London
can't boast many designers who began their careers
in the sixties and are still creating with a great
sense of style and a passion for their craft.
She has shops strategically placed throughout
the UK; key international stockists and licensees
in Japan. She celebrated the 40th year of her
business with a party in 2002 at the V & A
and was also awarded an OBE for services to the
British fashion industry
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep5
PPQ
- Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker
PPQ
designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker are an
energetic double act who began their label in
1999. They design a main line women's and men's
collection and a highly popular jeans collection.
With investment from Icelandic retail giant Bugar
they expanded the company and opened their first
shop in Conduit Street during LFW last September.
They also have a vibrant record label called 1234.
Vibrant colour and print are important components
of their collections, which have become more luxurious
in past seasons. Their jewel colour-block cocktail
dresses have become something of a cult this year
joining their ubiquitous perfect smock. Their
PPQ skinny jeans are great favourites with the
rock fraternity. Sienna Miller, Kiera Knightly,
Lily Allen, Sophia Coppola, Kirsten Dunst and
Amy Winehouse are all fans. Accessories - bags,
belts and shoes - and a semi-precious jewellery
range complete their collections.
COLLETTE
DINNIGAN - Collette
Dinnigan
Collette
Dinnigan is no overnight success. In her late
teens, Collette attended Wellington Polytechnic
and on graduation she moved to Australia to began
her career in fashion, working for the Costume
Department of the Australian Broadcasting Commission
in Sydney. Attention to detail and a historical
perspective on both fabrication and design were
the result. Stepping out on her own in 1990, the
Collette Dinnigan label was born. Collette's distinctive
style meant her in-demand designs were snapped
up by hip boutiques and department stores in Australia
and New Zealand. Barney's New York, Neiman Marcus,
Harvey Nichols and Joyce in Hong Kong were soon
to follow and an international presence was established.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep6
ELIE
SAAB
In
1982, Saab launched his own Beirut-based fashion
label when he was just 18 years old. His main
workshop is in Lebanon, a country to which he
remains deeply attached. He also has workshops
in Milan and Paris. Saab is self-trained. He started
sewing as a child and knew that one day he would
make a living out of it. In 1981 he moved to Paris
to study fashion, but ended up returning and opening
his workshop in 1982. In 1997 Saab was the first
non-Italian designer to become a member of the
Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda, and in 1997,
showed his first collection outside Lebanon in
Rome. In 1998, he started ready-to-wear in Milan,
and in the same year, he held a fashion show in
Monaco which was attended by Princess Stephanie
of Monaco. He gained notoriety after he became
the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar
winner, Halle Berry, in 2002. In May 2003, the
Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture invited
him to become a member, and he showed his first
haute couture collection in Paris in July 2003
ORSALIA
PARTHENI
Dimitris
Parthenis opened his first store in Athens in
1970 and his second in Mykonos in 1978 which launched
his label internationally with flagship stores
in Brussels and Los Angeles. Daughter Orsalia
continues her father's tradition of "chic sportif".
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep7
MAHLIA
KENT - Eve Corrigan
Mahlia
Kent was Coco Chanel's fabric creator. Today,
the company consists of a creative team coming
from 15 different nationalities, under the direction
of ex-fashion model - EVE CORRIGAN (French - American
Mahlia Kent has over 50 years of long term relations
with artists, designers and fashion stylists of
the world and the great couture houses of CHANEL,
DIOR, GUCCI, PRADA, KENZO, YSL, RALPH LAUREN,
CK, DKNY, VERSACE, VALENTINO, etc.
BORA
AKSU
Turkish
born Aksu graduated from Central St Martins MA
in 2002 starting his own label immediately. He
has previously been awarded New Generation sponsorship
four times. In the past he has worked with Converse
incorporating aspects of the popular sneakers
into his clothes. He has collaborated with ballet
choreographer Cathy Marston designing costumes
for her TCMP tour. He also designs an exclusive
diffusion line for the retail group Koton called
'Bora Aksu for Koton'.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep8
CHRISTOPHE
GUILLARME
Graduate
of the Higher School of the applied arts, Christophe
carries out a successful initiatory course at
J.C. de CASTELBAJAC, Dice KAYEK and Stella CADENTE.
In 1998, Christophe signs his first collection
which meets with an immediate success. He then
launches his line under his own name one year
later. The work of Christophe is at crossroads
between modern and tradition. Conservative in
his creative process and in the refinement of
the details, his models are versatile and successfully
mix Glam' Rock and couture. An ultra feminine
style which has already caught the eye of many
celebrities from Paris to Los Angeles as well
as Cannes.
PAUL
COSTELLOE
The
Dublin-born designer continues to expand his successful
business. One of the most established names in
British fashion he has a loyal following for his
wearable designs in his signature linens, tweeds
and printed silks. This past year he has been
expanding his UK based shops and European concessions.
His collections are an essentially classic and
fresh mix of tailoring, knitwear and dresses with
three main aspects each season. His main line
'Collection' focuses on occasion dressing for
day and evening using fine Italian fabrics. 'City'
is a capsule range of strong tailored suiting
at keen price points, perfect for the working
woman. 'Dressage' is the leisure section of the
collection; casual cords, denims mixed with butter
soft nappa jackets, fine knits and jersey pieces
for relaxed but stylish weekends.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep9
UNCONDITIONAL
- PHILIP STEPHENS
Philip
Stephens had a varied career before he landed
back on Planet Fashion working in interior design,
event management and club promotion. He started
the fashion/lifestyle consultancy Concrete PR
and Marketing in 1996 and the Concrete Shop followed
4 years later. The UNCONDITIONAL collection was
initially designed exclusively for the shop but
Louis Boston became his first wholesale customer
and encouraged him to expand the range. There
are now over 90 international stockists in 18
countries. They are a winning combination of the
laidback and the edgy. . The collections have
a diverse range of celebrity customers which include
Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Jude Law, Adrian Brody,
to David Bowie and Depeche Mode, Kasabian and
Mika. Cameron Diaz, Tori Amos, Madonna, Kelis,
Skin, Jade Jagger, Amy Winehouse, and Sheryl Crow
are female fans.
TINA
KALIVAS
Greek-Australian
designer Tina Kalivas began her career in London,
working within the Fashion and Film Industry.
Primarily she worked at Alexander McQueen, Clements
Ribeiro, Russell Sage and J. Maskrey where she
was a seamstress and Creative Pattern Cutter of
showpieces and private orders. Now she is creating
her own label & making her own mark in the fashion
Industry. Her collaborations include designing
a capsule collections for Kookai and Target, Designing
uniforms for the new luxury Sydney Hilton Hotel
and much more. Tina is making her own path and
really determining what design means to her, personally.
She is unlike many designer, she always finds
a new way to approach fashion. Her most recent
collection, Polyrhythms is just testament to how
far things can and will go in fashion. Inspiration
is ever growing and never ending. Tina’s FW09
collection is about Polyrhythms, which is the
simultaneous sounding of two or more independent
rhythms, often heard in traditional African music
and the Jazz music of artists like Miles Davis
and John Coltrane.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep10
YUKI
TORII
As
a child, Yuki Torii had ambitions of becoming
a painter. Pattern and color had always excited
her, and when she became a professional designer
in the early 1960s, her approach always began
with the textile or color, with a defined choice
of palette that ranged from pastels to brights.
These bold, vivid color have been an enduring
and recognizable quality in Torii's work. One
distinctive collection was autumn/winter 1986,
which mixed rigorously colored tartans and checks
for menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear. The
collection consisted of lively, wearable separates;
oversize tartan shirts, tartan trousers, and comfortable
cardigans for men; long tartan flounced skirts
for women, teamed with long, skinny rib jumpers
or oversized Argyle patterned sweaters; tartan
pinafore dresses for girls and a weatherbeaten,
mountaineering look for boys, layering tartan
overshirts over tartan Levi-style jackets.
WAYNE
COOPER
English
by birth, Wayne Cooper was a denizen of London's
East End before moving to Australia in 1985. He
finished law in the U.K., but decided to enroll
at East Sydney Technical College to study fashion
design upon his arrival down under. After a successful
fashion partnership that lasted 7 years, Cooper
decided to strike out on his own and launched
"Brave." In 1996, he launched "Wayne Cooper,"
a more exclusive collection, complementing the
mid-priced "Brave" label. The designer has traditionally
shown at the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week,
but has also presented his collections in Japan,
and Bryant Park during the Fall 2000 New York
fashion season. Also an entrepreneur, Wayne Cooper
has six boutiques throughout Australia. The company
also wholesales to department stores including
David Jones, Myer Grace Bros and a further 50
boutiques throughout Australia and New Zealand.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep11
DHINI
Dhini
learned to sew as a girl in Sri Lanka. Now Dhini
Pararajasingham, 32, has her own couture label.
Growing up in Sri Lanka, Dhini Pararajasingham
remembers her grandmother teaching her and identical
twin Shini to hand-stitch cotton dolls' clothes.
She also remembers being smitten by a video of
catwalk models parading Yves St Laurent designs.
"I loved the whole feeling of the show; the music,
the colour, the gorgeous girls, one after another.
I was awestruck." Today, Pararajasingham, 32,
has her own label, Dhini Couture, and is attracting
tags such as "a genius in complicated tailoring"
and "cult designer". But if her parents had had
their way, she would have had a career in marketing.
"We come from a family that's quite strict and
(they believe) you have to have an academic career,''
says the diminutive designer, who left war-torn
Sri Lanka aged eight and travelled with her family
to India, Europe and the United States before
settling in Melbourne in 1990. "My sister wanted
to do art and I liked fashion but we didn't have
the guts to do it. My parents said, 'Look, do
something academic and after you graduate you
can do whatever you want to do'." In Pararajasingham's
sunny studio - the sitting room of her family's
North Balwyn home - three RMIT students on work
placement have heads bowed over work tables. It's
not always so quiet but with several big projects
under way, Pararajasingham has banned banter.
Having come late to fashion, it's as if she is
making up for lost time - within weeks, the team
must finish a range of demi-couture garments for
stores around Australia, conceptual pieces for
a futuristic installation at a Melbourne boutique,
and her new spring/summer collection, which will
be unveiled during Australian Fashion Week in
Sydney in April. "I was supposed to do a show
in India, too, but there was no time so I had
to say no,'' she says. "Opportunities like that
will come again."
ROY
After
25 years in fashion and a three year hiatus, designer
Roy Christou is back with his new label, Honor
Among Thieves. Equal parts dashing and disheveled,
the Honor Among Thieves label pioneers a return
to easy dapper that plays to the scoundrel in
all of us. Roy is dedicated to the pursuit of
luxury without pretense, and in advocating a smart
interpretation of casual. He bears all the marks
of a fashion veteran – perfect shapes, cuts and
lines; fine fabrics sourced from Australia and
Japan, designed to be worn stripped back or piled
on. Drawing inspiration from the likes of Oscar
Wilde and Nick Cave, Roy's collections embody
a refined 1950's rascal aesthetic.
STEPHEN
JONES MILLINERY
Stephen
Jones OBE (born 31 May 1957) is a leading British
milliner based in London, who is considered one
of the world's most radical and important milliners
of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.[1]
He is also one of the most prolific, having created
hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers
and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at
Dior and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His work is known
for its inventiveness and the high level of technical
expertise with which he realises his ideas.[3]
Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An
Anthology for the Victoria & Albert Museum.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep12
DEUX
HOMMES
Dimitris
Alexakis and Gregory Triantafylou burst into the
fashion scene as DEX HOMMES back in 1992. Over
the ensuing years, their atelier has become a
hothouse of creativity for unique couture pieces
made-to-order.
TURNBULL
& ASSER
Turnbull
& Asser enjoys a prestigious heritage as a Gentleman’s
shirt maker and tailor. Established in 1885, we
have occupied premises at 71 & 72 Jermyn Street
since 1903. Here, we have dressed world leaders,
entertainers, captains of industry, royalty and
style icons that include James Bond. Today, with
our stores in New York, Los Angeles and now the
City, our name stands for timeless style and exceptional
quality.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep13
BARBARA
BUI
This
high-end Parisian label is a study in extremes;
both structural and flowy, modestly romantic and
aggressively sensual. Barbara Bui has been successful
in establishing and expanding the brand over two
decades, branching off with two diffusion lines,
accessories, fragrances, and even a café in Paris.
Though she's long been known for her trousers'
flattering fit, as of late Bui's developed a reputation
for her Italian-made accessories and shoes. Born
in Paris to a Vietnamese father and a French mother,
Bui grew up fascinated by language and studied
literature at the prestigious Sorbonne. After
graduating, she opened a multi-brand boutique,
Kabuki, where she slowly introduced her namesake
label, eventually opening an eponymous shop in
1988. Though she's launched an accessory line
and two diffusion labels, Initials Barbara Bui
and Bui, she still works personally with her design
team on every piece.
KATHY
HAENDELS
Yiannis
Tongos
Haendel's
haute couture and designs grace the hips of the
well-heeled Athenians and have found their way
to the Middle East and Abroad.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep14
INES
DE LA FRESSANGE
Francois
Louis Vuitton
"I
never believed in the goddess thing,"says Ines
de la Fressange, about her emergence as one of
France's legendary beauties. Tall, exquisite,
with a perilously delicate frame, the former Chanel
supermodel is now a designer and businesswoman,
still appearing frequently on television and in
magazines. In 1989, at the height of her modeling
career, she was chosen as Marianne, the symbol
of the French republic, a role in which Brigitte
Bardot and Catherine Deneuve preceded her."Actresses
and models often can't have a balanced emotional
life," she says.
GIEVES
& HAWKES
The
Story of James Gieve begins with ‘Old Mel’ Melchisedek
Meredith’ who owned a tailors shop in the busy
waterfront town of Portsmouth. The centre of the
seafaring world at that moment, Old Mel drew naval
clientele and became the destination for maritime
uniforms. Many historical uniforms passed through
the shop, with Meredith tailoring the uniform
which Admiral Lord Nelson wore when killed in
action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.
The Portsmouth business was sold to Joseph Galt
in 1841 after Old Mel passed away with James Gieve
joining as a partner in 1852. The emergence of
the Crimean War saw the pair sail to Crimea to
continue to trade when most naval officers were
posted abroad. Developing the prototype Sea Chest,
Galt & Gieve equipped supply ships & serviced
troops during the war. James Gieve bought out
Galt in 1887 to establish Gieves & Co and following
his death in 1888 Gieve’s two sons, James W Gieve
& John Gieve, took over the business. In 1900,
at a time where 52% of the worlds shipping was
controlled by Britain, Gieves became tailor by
appointment to the Royal Navy. As best friend
to the Naval Officer, being dressed by ‘the man
from Gieves’ became an integral part of Naval
Cadet training which saw 98% of cadets from the
Royal Naval College decked in Gieves. Receiving
a personal warrant in 1911 of Royal Appointment
as the Royal Naval Outfitter to HM King George
V, Gieves has already dressed HM King Edward VII
and his sons as naval cadets. Gieves went on to
dress King Edward VIII, King George VI as the
sons of King George V were enrolled at Naval College.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 2 Ep15
KEITA
MARUYAMA
Short and sweet, Keita Maruyama's collection was
poetry in motion set to fine works of classical
music. In perfect harmony with the trend for next
fall/winter, he worked his magic with ruffles.
Maruyama opened his show with a beautiful, very
ladylike trench coat in cream. The coat has ruffles
in the back and is to be worn with matching boots.
He worked wonders with his knitwear and fringes.
A long knit coat complete with fringes will give
a woman the movement in time and in space that
she will need during her cold afternoons of shopping.
The cross-your-heart knit fringed top in grey
and matching fringed skirt will certainly guarantee
the right kind of attention to she who wears it.
YIORGOS
ELEFTHERIADIS
One
of Greece's leading designers with followings
in Paris and London, each of Eleftheriadis' collections
is characterised by an experimentation in texture,
shape and form.
|
|
FASHION FOLK Series 1 [18x26min episodes] |
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep1
NEW
YORK Ralph Rucci - New York Maestro of Fashion.
I discovered people like Balenciaga,
Charles James and Madam Gray, these are the three
tools that I used in my career to propel me. I
studied their work voraciously and then, you are
talking about the mid 70's, there was a man in
fashion that took those three designers and made
them real and literally overnight revolutionised
fashion, simplified it - and his name was Halston.
So I came to New York to work at Halston .
MILAN
Ghirardini -Gaetano De Franceschi - The Italian
Louis Vuitton, and where Guccio Gucci trained.
All the experiences you have
working with leather are important, because leather
is a living material and it is important to know
just how to sew by hand, "scarnilla" cut it by
hand, knowing how to fold leather and handle it,
feel it with your hands. Knowing the feel and
texture of leather, knowing its beauty and its
ablilities as well at what it is unable to do.
NEW
YORK Victor Lipko - Judith Lieber
Judith made beautiful products,
and they lasted. She would go on a public appearance
and a woman would come and say, Mrs. Leiber I
bought this fifteen years ago, see how great it
is. And she would says"It is time you bought another
one!" Judith started making handbags on her own
in 1963. She became a GI bride, came to the United
States after the war and worked for the most prestigious
Handbag Company at the time, which was Nettie
Rosenstein. In fact Judith made Mamie Eisenhower's
inaugural bag, with the Nettie Rosenstein label.
Eventually she got tired of working for other
people and in 1963 she hung out her own shingle.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep2
PARIS
Emanuel Ungaro - Fashion superstar Emanuel Ungaro
- a student of Balenciaga ,combines ultra-refined
couture with modern textile composition.
Cristobal was incredibly kind,
incredibly warm, incredibly shy – so strong that
there was an explosion inside, sometimes he exploded
on the outside too. After his death when I wrote
so many things about him, his assistants were
surprised the way I knew him. I stole the knowledge.
LONDON
John De Bruyni - Described as the English Hermes
and holders of4 Royal Warrants .
If you look at an English motor
car – a Rolls Royce, the inside with all the walnut
is saying 'We’re still trying to do what we used
to'. If you look at a Cadillac it is saying 'One
day man will go to Mars' .The people who find
their way here, it is an obstacle course, it is
a self selective course, unless of course their
fathers introduced them, are looking for a modern
way of living today, but plugged into the past.
SYDNEY
Tina Kalivas - FASHION - ex-Alexander McQueen,
James Bond "costumes" designer.
I met Katie Ingland who is
Alexander McQueen's stylist and she asked if I
could help so I went and helped on a show and
I worked on every show since. That kind of energy,
that kind of competitiveness is what makes London
a really interesting and exciting place because
if everyone is competing it means you have to
work even harder which means that standards are
higher. And then I worked on a James Bond film
'Die another day' and as soon as that finished
I moved to Australia.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep3
MILAN
Anna Masotti - La Perla - Daughter/VP ofthe most
successful designer-lingerie brand
I have to show myself, because
people want to see a face, want to see who is
behind the collection. I think that this is good,
because I am also a curious person. I want to
see who is the creator of something I like very
much. I like painting, I like sculpture. If I
like something I want to ask this person why did
you do this painting for example, because I want
to understand you. For me it is not enough just
to see something. I want to listen to a point
of view. I like to speak with people I don’t like
the communication in one direction. For me it
is important at this time. People don't talk -
they need to talk.
PARIS
Jacques Morabito - Master oftortoiseshell and
fine leather handbags.
Today, I think customers are
looking for design, brand name but they are not
aware what makes the quality of a leather product.
I remember 20 years ago that customers knew better
than I did. I learnt my job with my customers.
They knew perfectly well all the different types
and qualities of leather, of stitching, of inside
lining. Their requirements were incredible.
MADRID
Jesus Del Pozo - Golden Needle award, Balenciaga
Award winner
I never had drastic changes
in my designs. My collections evolve like my life
- one step ahead from the previous one. Every
new concept is the result of finessing previous
ideas. I was offered to go and design in America
but decided against it. Staying in Spain, whilst
compromising my financial rewards, allowed me
to investigate, and innovate, something the American
industry would probably not have allowed me to
do.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep4
PARIS
Mariano Puig - NINA RICCI - Entrepreneur and Fragrance
Family behind Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne and Carolina
Herrera's perfumes.
You have to make dreams with
truth, and what does truth mean, it means that
all the effort that you put in one product you
have to see it, otherwise the public will never
pay the money that you are asking for.
LONDON
James Lock - Hatmaker
The bowler hat was originally
invented for land owners who had these who had
these beaters who worked the land. They kept having
their hats knocked off in the undergrowth, not
only that thay kept having their head scratched
by briars, so they wanted a hard fitting hat to
the head. The Top Hat came from France. It landed
on our shores in 1798 and it started off in an
area called Charing Cross and it was brought to
us by John Heatherington. It caused a great fuss
when it was first worn, even the horses reared
up at the sight of it. Women fainted in the street.
NEW
YORK Lambertson Truex - Fashion Accessories
That is my assistant Amanda
over there, lovely Amanda. Her mother was in Marocco
on a camel. She called us on her cell phone from
Marocco saying, "You're not going to believe this
I'm in Marocco, I'm riding a camel with my handbag
and there is a woman asking me if this is a Lambertson
Truex handbag!"
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep5
MELBOURNE
Alannah Hill - Fashion Designer - From Tasmanian
Milk Bar toAustralian Fashion Icon
Everyone is knocked out by
the success. My mother says " You can't sew"...she
is still in a paddock in Tasmania. I still send
her a magazine with my clothes in it and say mum
look at page 44, that is my dress. She'll call
up and say "That girl didn't look like you. She
is not you". I say "Mum it is not the girl, it
is the clothing".
MILAN
Romeo Gigli - Architect & Fashion Superstar ofthe
80's, 90's and 2000's.
When a designer becomes really
important, in every profession not just in fashion,
after 3,4,5, years ,people working in the same
area absorb this energy, and this energy influences
their point of view. Of course after 4, 5, 6,
years, people are searching to discover a new
source of creative energy.
PARIS
Ashley Dormeuil - Men's fashion cloth & bespoke
suit maker
I once said to an American
reporter, 'You like going to Saville Row and you
get suits made, what do you think of them?' He
pondered for a while and he said 'Well if I get
three suits made, one will be absolutely outstanding,
marvellous and I'll wear it very often. Another
one is probably a suit I like, I'll wear it now
and then but the third one he says, is probably
for one reason or another, I am not very fond
of'. It can be irregular depending on the day
which the tailor cut it, if he had he gone to
bed earlier the previous day or was in an inspired
mood when he made the suit. Each suit is unique
and individual.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep6
MILAN
Anna Zegna - Bespoke fabric/suit suppliers to
the Pope.
The soul [of fashion] is really
the fabric, then it develops into style. The English
product was very similar season after season.
Being Italian, he wanted to add the love of Italian
beauty, culture and innovation to the process.
For example he used a lot of diagonal threads,
he mixed different types of yarns together to
be able to get a more resiliant fabric or a better
feeling fabric. He used to make "tessutti diopi"
which means double faced fabrics - on one side
one colour and on the other side a different colour
and a different structure. He did a lot of innovation
to the 'cooking' of the fabric.
PARIS
Michel Gouten - VP Cartier International & CEO
LANCEL Leather Accessories.
The potential today for a "small"
luxury company is larger because the large luxury
conglomerates have extended the taste of the people.
If you are a creator and you give to the people
something attractive and someting that they really
love, they will buy and you will be a success.
ATHENS
Celia Kritharioti - Born into a Fashion family
, Designing at the tenderage of16, her rich tapestries
flow from the hips ofsupermodels NaomiCampbell
, Claudia Schiffer and Elle McPherson
It is amazing to seen the psychological
influence of a dress on a woman. They come in
tired, but as soon as you pull up the zip, they
are transformed and energised.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep7
LONDON
Arkadius - Polish born pedagogist and one ofLondon's
newest Fashion Stars emerging from St Martin's
College.
There was nothing else that
I wanted to do in life but fashion. Why? because
firstly I wanted to do something very creative
and secondly the idea of doing painting or sculpture
I found it a little dead in the sense that when
you paint this picture it simply hangs on a wall,
no matter how beautiful the picture is. If you
do clothing this clothing could be a piece of
art but be alive because you can see it on a model-
Kate Moss on the cat walk, then beyond that in
photography, photographed by 10 photographers
and beyond that it ‘s timeless.
PARIS
Daniel Tribouillard - LEONARD - Flower Power Fashion
from Paris
I am totally crazy in the creation,
and very serious in the management. I work each
morning in the areas of business, finance and
administration. We have everyday a good lunch,
I need the lunch to cut the day because the morning
is taken up with the accounting, the lawyers,
and in the afternoon I work at the studio with
my girls, my models, and my people of the workroom,
and I create the garments in the afternoon. Everyday
is like that.
NEW
YORK Douglas Hannant - Modern Sportswear Fashion
The American lifestyle sort
of demands a certain sort of clothing and it is
just our sensiblity. We are very mobile and very
relaxed and the whole world is becoming more like
that. If it looks comfortable, it is usually not
very sexy, so it has to be also a balance between
those elements as well.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep8
PARIS
Christian Pays - Mahlia Kent - Coco Chanel's "other
half" and creator ofsumptuous fabrics which define
"Haute Couture".
Mahlia was a fabulous person,
a genius of creation and in fact she showed me
when we visited the company the museum with 50,000
fabrics representing the creative work of the
last 50 years. This museum is the only one in
the world. I mean Tom Ford came here to Paris
and visited our museum to look at the old fabrics
in order to create new ones. You know it is fabulous.
Mr Lagerfeld comes very often, Jean Paul Gaultier
lives next door.
MILAN
Stefano Citron, Stephen Vernon, Greg Myler - Mila
Schon
You can dress in London for
a couple of hundred quid and look amazing and
with your last 50 quid buy yourself a drink. In
Italy, there are two kind of looks. There is a
very kinda classic Max Mara and then you have
Donatella Versace's with the blonde hair and all
the business.
MADRID
Javier Larrainzar - FASHION MADRID - ex-Oscar
de la Renta/ex-Royal Spanish Family tailor.
The last time that I went to
New York with my father, Oscar [de la Renta] asked,
"You want to do something in fashion?" I said,
"Yes! I am thinking of going to school in Milano",
and he offered to me the opportunity to work with
him, once I had finshed my schooling. Oscar said
"You can work for 6 months, or something like
that, and you will see that you will learn a lot
with me". This six months turned into 3 years.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep9
PARIS
Coqueline Courreges - Superstar Fashion Designer
Husband/Wife team
My husband Henri
Courreges was working 11 years at Balenciaga.
One day he decided it was time to branch out.
He made an analysis of the world of Haute Couture
from 1955 to 1960 and proposed to Balenciaga a
change of vision for the whole of couture. Couture
needed to evolve . At this time Balenciaga did
not really understand these ideas because they
were very new, and it was a new generation so
he gave Henri the permission to go and explore
his ideas on his own.
LONDON
Tanner Krolle - Accessories
This is a vegetable tanned
and vegetable dyed leather. The skins come from
northern Europe and the tanning and the finishing
process is done in England. We have been buying
from the same tanneries for over 35 years. It
is a labour intensive, hand process. It has natural
oil and natural waxes and sometimes the leather
blooms with natural whiteness that comes through.
SYDNEY
Wayne Cooper "Bad-Boy" UK born/Australian FashionStar/Designer.
In Sydney or in Australia they
do use their clothes more so as a sexual tool,
their bodies are their main weapon. Our recent
collection was called 'The Temptress' and it was
more about what was hidden and lies beneath. It
was not overtly sexual. You'd have this prim piece
and a piece you know that wasn't so… and there
were slight little touches of revealing sexiness
but it wasn't all tits and arse, which we are
trying to get away from.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep10
MELBOURNE
Bettina Liano - FASHION - The name on the hips
of Portia Rossi, Lucy Liu and Kylie Minogue
I was unemployed, I was unemployable,
I could not hold down a job, people didn't like
me, because I was very serious and also as a young
person I was also very clever - older people don't
like that necessarily, they try to slap you down
a bit. I needed money, I had come into some misfortune
family wise. I was a bit on the street kind of
thing, starving if you will, very hand to mouth.
LONDON
Tomasz Starzewski - Fashion Superstar
The arrogance of youth is the
greatest gift that you can be given and I am sure
that I would not take the risks today, with the
wisdom that I have today of what I did when I
was an abnoxious precocious 19 year old. A lot
of my contemporaries who went to work in Milan,
Paris, New York will never have their own label
because they just can't take that step. They are
too wise.
PARIS
Rosemarie Le Gallais- D. Swarovski - Fashion Jewellery
[used to work with Lagerfeld at Chloe]
I have a very funny approach,
you know, I never think about something being
impossible. We are working with wonderful artisans,
most of them in Paris for the moment. Sometimes
when I give them the idea in the beginning they
say 'Its impossible". When someone says it is
impossible I become move convinced that I have
to try. This "innocence" gives sometimes a really
wonderful result. I put things in total contrast,
with unexpected materials. I would put crystals
with wood, or crystal with fur, and that made
it modern and interesting and then you find ways
of using it.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep11
MILAN
Vittorio Missoni - Colour Maestro of Fashion.
An artist in a certain way
can work when he has a feeling, fashion designers
every day you have to show your collection, every
day you have appointment with your customers and
you cannot leave the market and wait and say o.k.
for 6 months I stay out and then I come back.
You cannot do this, so really it is very important
to be also an entrepreneur.
PARIS
Christian Louboutin - Trained in the real "Moulin
Rouge" of Parisand under the late Shoe Master
"Roger Vivier" , Christian Louboutin designs glide
the catwalks of Alexander McQueen, Jean-Paul Gaultierand
twinkle the toes ofthe Queen of Jordan.
I wanted to design shoes for
the showgirls in Paris. At the beginning they
are a classical dancers so they have the breast
in "peal" - meaning not round but small with nipples
pointing upwards , a tiny waist , the arse of
a dancer and they are quite short in general.
The reality of a showgirl in France is a "bird
parade" - women dressed to resemble beautiful
exotic birds.
MELBOURNE
Roy Christou - FASHION - UK/Cypriot/Australian
designer [ex-partner of Bettina Liano]
Some denim I have used is too
good, and it just takes forever to bash up. The
manufacturer of the fabric will spend so long
making this bullet fabric and then only for me
to come along and think, it has cost me too much
money to fuck it up. Or they will make a denim
that is really tight in its weave and I will want
one that is looser in its weave so that it can
release the fibres, so it is a bit hairier, there
are all different aspects to everything.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep12
SYDNEY
Akira - Australian Superstar Fashion Designer
- coveted inParis/London
Traditionally Japanese clothes
are shapeless - it is called Kimono. It is based
on a square format as far as construction is concerned.
Also there is a relationship between the fabric
and the body - the space between fabric and body.
When the fabric moves, it animates and generates
a spontaneous design. My idea of covering is seductive.
When you hide things - something unseen, which
makes you feel like you want to see it - for me
that is more desirable than actually showing everything.
LONDON
James Whishaw- Gieves & Hawks - Saville Row personified.
There is an excentricity about
English people - there is a cultural sort of roll
up the sleeves kind of feeling about it. I'll
do it myself, kind of cottage industry thing which
depending on how it is nurtured, goes into artisan
or becomes a very creative, specific talent. But
as soon as it becomes commerical we are out of
it. We get hand picked because essentially if
it is too difficulty for someone else to do it
- we want to do it.
PARIS
Bernard Lacoste - FASHION - the famous crocodile
of Tennis…
I was only 32 and I had the
cheek to say to my father " I'll only take over
the business it if I can really do what I want".
He looked at me and said "What are you saying?".
He said after thinking it over a little bit, "On
two conditions. I want the name of our family
and the crocodile emblem surname to be always
well considered. that means only high quality
products, sold in the right shops and the right
boutiques, First condition. Second condition,
I will not give you any family money to invest
so you must manage without asking the family for
the money. O.K?" I said to him "O.K".
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep13
NEW
YORK David Rodriguez - NY's HOT Fashion Designer
I joined Richard [Tyler] before
he stated consulting with Anne Klein - so it was
in the early days. He really started in a tiny
little store in Los Angeles doing custom clothes
and before that he was doing clothes for rock
stars, like Rod Stewart, Ossie Osborn - his background
was very theatrical and there is nothing more
theatrical than Rock.
PARIS
Raymond Massaro - Legendary Shoemaker [creator
ofChanel's shoes]
I liked Coco Chanel a lot.
She was a very astute person and knew exactly
what she wanted and you had to be very professional
in your approach. When I created the very famous
Chanel sandal in 1958, Madam Chanel was around
90 years old and she told me if a lady has four
pair of sandals - beige with blue: beige with
black: beige with brown: and beige with red -
you can travel all around the world and you don't
need any more luggage.
LONDON
Bruce Oldfield - London Fashion supremo/interior
designer.
There was always glamour in
American fashion . It was always something simple
and sleek and it was always poo-pooed by the Europeans,
because it was seen, and in fact to some extent
it was true, that they made a necessity out their
manufacturing capabilities. They made an art of
it, because their manufacturing was quite poor.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep14
NEW
YORK Mary McFadden- Fashion designer inspired
by centuries of costume
My third signature collection
is Maori quilting. All these things look extremely
delicate and very artistic and look as if they
should be in museums but in fact they're indestructible.
The most inportant thing is that you step off
a bus or an aeroplane looking perfect and that
whatever you pack requires no maintenance.
LONDON
Guvinda - Rising British Fashion Star - worked
for McQueen,MacDonald & Lacroix.
I wrote a letter to McQueen
and showed my portfolio, he said to me "When do
you want to start?" I said "I'll start tomorrow".
Literally the next day, I was on the same shift,
15 hours a day.
PARIS
Gianluca Brozetti - ex-Bulgari, LVMH,
When we were in McKenzie, the
Gucci family was run by Maurizio with his cousins.
They wanted to make the transition from family
to management so they came to McKenzie and they
got a General manager and a team of people from
McKenzie's. It failed. Luxury goods have a spirit,
have a soul. They are not just numbers, they are
not just logistics they are not just mechanisms,
there is something intangible that we sell to
our clients that goes beyond the product. So on
one side understanding the philosophy of the family
which has been creating a successful story, I
think it is a key ingredient to continue the successful
story later on when you bring in more management,
more systems, more professionalism - you should
never forget that the success of that product
started from a family where there was something
intangible.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep15
PARIS
Andree Putman - Design Superstar
Real talent is a mix. It has
very much to do with who they are inside. Do they
have a very strong nature. Can they take a terrible
risk, can they take a terrible failure. Can they
accept that the major lady on earth who may be
the one who writes in Herald Tribune decides your
collection is very poor, and what happens in your
house because you did not make it that time. Can
you live without a lot of money? Can you wait
for things to come to you? Can you be patient?
Not selling your name partly or completely. It
is as important as talent.
LONDON
John Lobb continues to make handmade shoes ofdistinction,
enjoyingthe patronage ofthe Royal Family since
the mid-1800's.
One of the first things he
was able to do, we are not quite sure how, we
think from a footprint, he made the Prince of
Wales a pair of boots. And the Prince of Wales
was pleased with them and granted him the royal
warrant. So he had an enormously great royal warrant
to put over his shop.
LONDON
Anouska Hempel - This British design powerhouse
includes fashion,interiors and now commercial
spaces [for Van Cleef& Arpels etc...] in her repertoire.
I thought if you could dress
a 4 poster bed, you could probably sort of have
more fun with something that moved around a bit.
It is part of a lifestyle and architectural lifestyle
is something that I am really all about, at the
end of the day without realising. It has something
to do with fashion, food, gardens, it is a mixture
of what your life it about.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep16
MUNICH
Willy Bogner - Billion-dollar Ski fashion designer
business, filmaker[ski scenes in all James Bond
Movies], ex-Olympic skier.
As a ski racer I was always
quite furious when they would say 'well you are
only a sportsman' and 'sportsmen don't think'.
So I was fighting this labeling from the very
beginning. Sport was a big way to learn because
you learn how to loose. My most famous sports
achievement or non-achievement was in the Olympic
in Squaw Valley where I was leading by a second
and I had to just basically come down and I fell,
and it was a disaster. It is typical of sport,
one moment you are champion and the next you are
nothing and to be able to deal with that is a
great lesson.
NEW
YORK William Calvert
When I went to Balmain I helped
the designer prepare the haute couture and once
you have seen that you really aren't interested
in t-shirts any more. People think "Oh, how can
a dress or a jacket cost $100,000.00?" Well when
you take fabric that has been on some special
loom by the most technical advanced or the most
knowledgeable person and it is $1,000.00 a yard,
and then you employ the 5 best technicians to
create that garment at about $50.00 - $100.00
hour and they work 100 hours a piece, suddenly
that garment is getting very expensive. But the
thing about haute couture is that it is a laboratory,
like a Formula 1 racing unit, where all the new
ideas and techniques are tested out and proven
and figured out so it is much simpler and less
expensive once these ideas are put into ready
to wear.
LONDON
Marie Steichenberger - HOLLAND & HOLLAND
Mr Holland was crazy about
Safari and he started to travel a lot and Holland
and Holland became a house of adventure travel
to other countries. So we had two concerns, the
gun and the adventure travel.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep17
NEW
YORK Dana Buchman - Fashion Superstar
In 1976 I remember being down
on 7th Avenue and looking up at the skyscrapers
and thinking how do I get in. I had never really
had a real job in the fashion industry and there
are unwritten rules that I did not know - this
was hippy times and I remember coming to work
in hiking boots with a rag wrapped around my head
and I don't want to tell you the name of the company
but it is a very respectable company still working
and it was like "Oh my God" ...
LONDON
Stephen Jones Hatmaker to 80's/90's fashion icons
Montana, Muglerand Gaultier, Jones now makes hats
with buddy John Galliano and stamps with British
Post!
I am a milliner, but I am also
a therapist, a psychiatrist, all those different
things, because I think that when you are a milliner
– it is such a personal thing to do. Whether I
am working with a lady from the countryside or
a pop star or John Galliano, it is all about getting
as close to them as possible and then trying to
sort of put their character and my character into
a hat.
SYDNEY
Nicky Zimmermann - FASHION - Swimsuits good enough
forVictoria's Secrets.
We were a very small company
at the time when Fashion Week happened, we had
no money but it was always the most successful
move that we have every done. By picking up those
wholesalers we got an interview with CNN with
Elsa Clench and from that we picked up a US distributor
and from there we are with Victoria Secrets, and
we do significant volume in the USA.
|
|
 |
FASHION
FOLK SERIES 1 Ep18
MILAN
Alessandro Dell'Acqua- Italy's hottest fashion
superstar is asked to re-invigorate Borbonese
, one ofItaly's famous leathergoods makers
The spirit of Borbonese is
the exact contrary of my own label. That is why
it is very interesting, because I work in two
different directions . The Borbonese woman is
one who likes to travel the world, is sophisticated,
not too extravagant , extremely fashionable ,
but very classical - never bourgeois. My personal
label is more experimental and cutting edge.
NEW
YORK Eric Javits - Revered Fashion Milliner
It has been a journey to say
the least because we really don't have a tradition
in this country of people using their hands and
making that their livelihood. So I have had to
find people where I could and have had to train
some of them and almost everyone you know that
I have in my manufacturing plant has been trained
in-house.
MADRID
Devota Lomba
|
|
|